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Post by ejparrott on Oct 8, 2014 9:25:50 GMT
I'm finding it harder to get paraffin, so I've swapped to BBQ lighter fluid, which now seems to be harder to get too, so I'll be trying BBQ lighter gel when my supplies run out.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2014 9:32:23 GMT
Hello young chap !!------------I get mine from my local Farmers Stores >>>>>>>> www.tfmsuperstore.co.uk/ .............. or you might try B & Q on a Wednesday ( 10% discount for Pensioners )......
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Post by ejparrott on Oct 8, 2014 11:54:14 GMT
not been to tfm for a few years...and B&Q Wednesday's ain't much use to me....
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Post by Rob on Oct 8, 2014 19:09:00 GMT
I recently discovered a new supplier for Paraffin in the form of 'Buyology'; a discount store. Was about a pound a litre I think, which isn't bad considering the price it sells in some places.
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Post by andyhigham on Oct 8, 2014 20:34:23 GMT
You could always try diesel, its very similar in composition to parrafin/kerosine
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2014 22:17:09 GMT
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bhk
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 458
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Post by bhk on Oct 9, 2014 1:32:32 GMT
You may find diesel needs a stronger draft to burn clean when compared to kero / paraffin. But at a quarter of the price I could live with that!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2014 9:35:31 GMT
Ah, now you've moved on to combustion rather than their cleaning abilities............Paraffin/Kerosene has a higher Calorific Value than Diesel ( ie more heat output per unit volume ) so that might be false economy, all other things taken into account that is......Having said that, Diesel-based fuel oil tends to be the preference in generating plants and Marine applications mainly from a safety point of view ( low flash-point, etc )..whereas the Aviation industry uses a kerosene-based fuel ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_fuel ) exactly because of its' higher Cal.Val.....storage space being limited on any aircraft...
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Post by Rob on Oct 9, 2014 18:30:37 GMT
You may find diesel needs a stronger draft to burn clean when compared to kero / paraffin. But at a quarter of the price I could live with that! Where are you buying your diesel?! I need to fill some 55 gallon drums That would make it 25p a litre around here!
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 11, 2014 5:30:37 GMT
It's test time today! The loco has finally arrived and I have everything I need i will try and create a video Marc
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2014 8:16:41 GMT
Good luck ---------- make sure the oil pump IS working and there IS oil at the delivery end of the oil pipe BEFORE you open the regulator at all( you can prime the system by attaching a box spanner or small socket and extention shaft onto the pawl&ratchet, then turn the shaft continuously ).....Test the water supply to the injector ..test the hand pump and by-pass pump shut-of valve .....leave the drain cocks open all the time for the first steam session-------Give the boiler several good blow-downs to purge any contamination----- if the regulator feels stiff when cold, it might free-up as the boiler warms up ( Take your time !!).....The gauge glass packing might dribble ...leave it alone until fully warmed up then GENTLY nip the gland nuts up but only a wee bit ( Almost MICRONIC Roger might say LoL !!).........KEEP THE WATER LEVEL BETWEEN 1/2 TO 3/4 of a glass ----------- Test the injector and by-pass pump for operation ----
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 12, 2014 15:13:38 GMT
Hello there I managed to test my simplex yesterday, and amazingly after 2 years of not being used, she steam well without any problems. No leaks, no dribbles. Alan, I have a hydrostatic lubicator system, but there was indeed drops of oil. I had it set to one drop every 6-10 seconds... i did fiddle with it a bit to try and find the perfect amount of drops. The hand and axle pumps both worked well. The steam as predicted as very wet.... but tbh I want to have at least a year of me running with her before I attempt to put the superheat back on. One thing I didnt manage to test was the injector, as the tanks warm up too quickly, plus the injecotr is piped to an outlet on the buffer beam, for me to fix a silcon pipe to a water supply in the engine. How would I go about finding the right tupperware for my water supply. What I really mean is how do i connect the tupperware to the silcon tube? Here is a short video: drive.google.com/file/d/0B347TLiQDISLREJlcHgwcWhCWWc/view?usp=sharingMarc
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 12, 2014 15:14:49 GMT
I meant for me to connect a water suppy from the tender! Marc
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,813
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Post by uuu on Oct 12, 2014 16:05:28 GMT
Well done. Encouraging to hear that everything you've tried actually works!
Wilf
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 12, 2014 17:17:58 GMT
It was very encouraging, just have to sort this cold water supply out so I have three ways of putting water into the boiler ( might make a donkey pump too) and the lubrication is also bothering me. I have figured out how to use the cylinder hydrostatic lubrication system, and I am happy with that. However, I am still clueless about lubrication of everything else... what oil should I use? Also, the oil can i bought has too large of a nozzle, can anyone recommend a site where i could either a syringe or precision oil can. Cheers Marc
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pault
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,497
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Post by pault on Oct 12, 2014 19:00:40 GMT
off topic i know but i think you will find that Diesel has a higher calorific value than kerosene. We did a trial running amongst other things a Rolls Royce CV12 on a test bed both on Diesel and Kerosene. Just tipping in AVTUR in reduced the engine power by about 12%
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Post by Rob on Oct 12, 2014 20:17:35 GMT
Most of the sources I can find suggest that Kerosene has a higher calorific value, but the difference is minimal. Source 1 Source 2
However, there are certain sources that state the reverse. It also differs depending on whether we're considering the higher or lower calorific values. Source 3
Marc, Well done! You have succeeded where I have not, I have had a good few years head start on you, but I have yet to own my own coal fired steam engine!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2014 22:09:59 GMT
Hello gents---------shall we open a Dieso/Kerosene dedicated thread as this is hardly "Steam Sundries".............Marc--- well done indeed and keep up the good work--
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gwr7800
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Member of Portsmouth mes
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Post by gwr7800 on Oct 13, 2014 14:35:47 GMT
Good idea! Hagley, while reading the above posts I had a flashback ( no pun intended ) when I was a lad, mum used to send me down to the local hardware shop to get the paraffin ( cost pennies ) which was dispensed inside the shop! drip tray underneath sealed with a cork stopper! Outside of the shop was a hand operated petrol pump as well! wind one way then the other it was about 2/6 a gallon!!!!! Esso from memory!! I was about 8 or 9 at the time!! No elf and safety then! Funny I can remember that sort of thing but my keys and phone are another matter!!! Regards Chris
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 15, 2014 7:50:29 GMT
Back to sundries .... what lubrication oil mix should i use? At the moment I have general all purpose, steam oil 1000c and slidway oil. What mix should i do for oiling up. Also, does anyone who have a simplex? I do not how to oil up the axle pump or axle boxes... is there are any secret methods? I have my first pubic outing on friday Marc
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