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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2011 22:11:04 GMT
Pic177 The finished brake shaft placed loosely between the frames awaiting the support brackets that will hold it. Those are the next items on my list.. Pete Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Feb 22, 2011 9:40:20 GMT
Professional work Pete , congratulations are in order . Keep up the good work .
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2011 11:49:58 GMT
Thanks guys, yes Mike I primed the shaft. I'm getting a little worried about how many bits that will need painting in the future having no primer on them yet, I have a lot of catching up to do in that department I fear.
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2011 15:34:35 GMT
Hi Mike
I usually use Upol acid 8 etching primer but have run out so for now I've used Upol Weld 2 as a substitute which is another zinc rich primer i had in the workshop ,hopefully this is good enough until I can replace the Acid 8 and yes it does have a nice dull metallic finish to it.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2011 16:35:46 GMT
Hi - I use the same, it is great stuff. I'm not sure too many people are aware of the fact you can buy Upol8 in 1 litre tins. Chin chin. Mike. Where from please? The local paint supplier is v.expensive! JB |
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pault
Elder Statesman
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Post by pault on Feb 23, 2011 16:10:23 GMT
Hi Pete
I only came across this thread last night and spent a very enjoyable evening reading it from end to end. So this is just a quick note to say, a very impressive piece of work, thanks and I’m jealous. Thanks for motivating me to crack on with my P2 tender which I have not touched for some months now. I’m jealous that you have the time to spend and a wife that will let you spend the time in the workshop. Please keep the pictures and write ups coming, it is interesting to see how someone else tackles the same jobs that you are doing in different ways.
Regards
Paul
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2011 20:08:37 GMT
Hi Paul Thanks for the words of encouragement.... A P2 eh?... Very nice, I believe the tender is very similar if not the same from recollection. I would love to see pictures, perhaps a thread of the build would be nice, will give me more incentive with mine. Regarding time, I work freelance and right now I'm awaiting a new contract which should start soon so I'll soon be slowing down unfortunately. Luckily my wife is very understanding as I'm sure most wife's are but even she gets fed up sometimes...  Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 19:21:00 GMT
Have I complained about how much work has to go into these brake components before, I have? Well then by God I'm moan about them again tonight.. Ok rant over, back to the build.. Pic178 Here are the finished brake shaft and trunnion parts ready for fitting to the frames. The trunnions were pretty straight forward affairs, consisting of 1/8 steel plate cut to size and shaped. Next 7/16 BMS bar collars were machined to size and bored out to 1/4 to accept the 1/4 spigots on the brake shaft, these were then brazed to the plates. The final jobs being the four small webs that were first cut oversize, soft soldered in place and then sanded down to their final shape leaving just the mounting holes that were transferred from the frames, drilled and then tapped 8BA. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 19:24:43 GMT
Pic179 The shaft temporary fitted, it needs a small amount taken off each spigot to loosen up, for now I've left alone as it's easier to work on like this. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 19:31:13 GMT
Pic180 Here under the burnt flux is one of the adjusting nuts. On the prototype these have opposite threads at each end but as Don states in his words there's no need for it here and since I haven't got a left hand thread 5/32x40T tap/die I went with him. Btw Don actually suggested 5/32x32 but alas I don't have this size so went with the 40T, but hey just means I have a finer adjustment.. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 19:40:50 GMT
Pic181 The two finished adjusters after being acid dipped to remove the flux. These are involved little buggers, first 1/4 hex bar has a spigot turned on it and bored out to accept a 5/32x40T tap which is then parted at 1/4 length. With some threaded rod to fit a nut is screwed on each end with the spigot facing inward to an overall length of 15/16. Next is the fun bit ( I think not) 1/8 bar is bent to shape with a 3/8 middle section and a shallow bend either side, the ends are then scalloped to fit the profile of the spigots. After covering the lengths of studding with soap the parts were held together with magnets and brazed up. The soap did it's job and the studding was easily removed to leave the final items as shown. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 19:43:41 GMT
Pic182 Here are the finished adjusters and rods ready for fitting. The other parts are similar to parts already made so I haven't gone over their construction here again. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 19:45:25 GMT
Pic183 A couple of shots to show the parts fitted, here a view from the front Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 19:50:30 GMT
Pic184 And finally a picture looking from the rear. Next job will be the handbrake, after that the only parts left for the tender brakes are the vacuum cylinders and reservoir tank since I have no sheets of 1/8 rubber for the cylinders I may jump onto the springs.. We'll see.... Pete Attachments:
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pault
Elder Statesman
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Post by pault on Feb 24, 2011 22:27:13 GMT
Hi Pete
Yes the tender is basically the same as yours, but 7 1/4 “ gauge. Interestingly there do seem to be subtle differences between different batches of what are on the face of it identical tenders. I am not going quite as far as you are on the detail front, I take my hat off to you. I am aiming for a halfway house between scale and functional. I have also made changes to reduce maintenance etc by incorporating things like roller bearings running on hardened and ground axles.
As far as my tender goes for practical reasons (I don’t have anywhere to store the finished article at the moment) I have assembled very little of the frames but made almost all the parts to produce the frames. The only remaining parts to make are the brake shaft that you have just done, the vacuum cylinders, cross beam, pull rods and spring hangers. My cunning plan is to make everything for the tender and then assemble it in one hit. To date I have been working from the works drawings, and was going to do the same with the tank, however having seen yours I may well talk to Malcolm about a laser cut set of parts, when the time comes.
As for putting a thread up on here it would be one of the slowest moving threads in history. My biggest problem is lack of time. A lot of my spare time is spent at the Great Cockcrow where I head up the workshop team. We are not like a model engineering club and we have a significant number of loco owners who for one reason or another cannot maintain their locos so we look after the maintenance of them. Throw in my other project, a dyno car, and you can see why my loco is very slow moving.
Regards
Paul
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2011 0:31:53 GMT
Now a P2 in 7 1/4 would be something to behold... I agree about the tenders having slight differences, I've researched a lot of them now and it seems that no two are alike.. I'm sure it would be an easy task for Malcolm to scale up for you, he does the exact same kits in smaller scales so going up should be no big deal. I must do something about getting involved with a club myself, I did join Harrow & Wembley for a year but only went twice, they seemed a friendly enough bunch but not having a loco to run myself and knowing nothing about how to run one anyway I felt a little out of my depth. I should join one again soon though although i havent decided wether to try Harrow again or go elsewhere as I would like to test the tender on a curve just to make sure I'm building it correctly... Pete |
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pault
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,502
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Post by pault on Feb 25, 2011 15:19:39 GMT
Hi Pete Yes a P2 in 7 ¼ is something we have a regular visitor have a the Cockcrow from Grimsby with a very very nice P2, have a look at www.youtube.com/watch?v=32vm72EAdKU&feature=relatedand www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv5NZpetbc4the Gladesman is the last train of the day, double headed and is normally 6 or 7 coaches fully loaded. It was a very quiet day, I was controller the two engines were in steam and I could not resist pairing them up for it. I would suggest it is worth joining a club, it’s very handy to be able to bounce ideas off people who have experience of similar things, mind you it’s probably quicker doing it on a forum like this. Regards Paul |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 22:28:33 GMT
Thanks for the links Paul, great looking loco's and yes I shall join a club again soon , just need to decide which one.. Ok back to the build and finishing off the handbrake. Pic185 Here is the first stage of the handbrake link. A 2 3/4 length of 1"x5/16 BMS flat bar is held in the vice, first a 5/16 hole is drilled on the centre line to match the hole in the brake shaft. Then a number of No.24 holes are drilled in preparation for the 3/4 x 5/32 slot that will be milled using an endmill. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 22:32:26 GMT
Pic186 With the slot milled next job was to profile the link on the rotary table. I machined around the 5/16 hole first followed by the sides and end. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 22:47:29 GMT
Pic187 I seem to have missed some pictures but here's the finished link and nut. The link also has two slots on the other face with a 1/8 section left between them as can be seen in this picture if you look closely. These where done again in the machine vice by holding the link level, holes drilled and then finished using endmills. The slots are of two different sizes, 3/16 for the nut and 5/32 to slide over the right hand brake shaft leg. The nut is from 5/16 bronze rod, chucked in the 3 jaw ,faced,turned down to 5/32 for an 1/8. ( drawing said 1/16 but I wanted to play safe and reduce the risk of the nut sliding out of the link since it's not physically held in) and then parted off at 5/16 overall. Reverse in chuck, and repeat for other spigot. Two flat spots where then machined on the centre section to allow the nut to slide into it's 5/32 slot. Last job was to remove from lathe centre pop the middle section, drill No. 29 and tap 5/32x40T( again should be 5/32x32t, guess I'll have to invest in that soon) Attachments:
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