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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 22:57:28 GMT
Pic188 The link temporary fitted to brake shaft, now here I came across an error on the drawing that although no big deal was a bit disappointing. If you look closely you'll notice that part of the drag box has been ground out, it turns out that the top and bottom plates for the box should be switched so that the link has the clearance needed. I rechecked the drawing in case I had misread it but I haven't the drawing shows it as built. Like I said it's no big deal but for anyone else wishing to build her, take note... Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 23:05:55 GMT
Pic189 The start of the bearing housing, 7/16 BMS first turned down 5/16 over a 9/32 length using a round nose tool. Then centred and drilled No.11. Parted at 1/2 overall then reversed in chuck, faced, drilled 5/16 for short distance and then finished to a depth of 3/16 with a slot drill. Yes I know I should make a D bit for this job but it's not critical and was only a short depth. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 23:08:48 GMT
Pic190 Now this is an extra piece, the drawing just has a flat piece as the housing bracket but in the close up pictures that I have this is in fact a right angle, which is what you see here. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 23:10:41 GMT
Pic191 The finished housing in place, the bearing housing having been silver soldered to the new face plate. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 23:19:00 GMT
Pic192 Next is the handle built as suggested by Don, a piece if 1/4 steel is cross drilled to accept a 3/32 rod( I used stainless here to match the polished look of the prototype) which are then brazed together. The rod was over length to allow for it being bent to shape before cutting to final size. The job is then held in the 3 jaw and machined down to the top of the 3/32 rod. Then it's drilled at No.28 to 1/4 depth before parting of at 3/16 overall. BTW drilling through steel with a stainless cross piece is ok if using very sharp bit and taken slowly... Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 23:30:08 GMT
Pic193 The finished components ready for assembly. Other parts here are the spindle which I decided to make in three pieces, consisting off a 1 1/2 length of 5/32 rod threaded to 32T, a plain 4 1/2 length of 1/8 rod although I added a spigot either end to align with the other two sections. Finally the top piece which has the collar and spigot to fit both bearing housing and handle. Last was the thrust washer which consists of a 5/16x1/16 washer and 5/16x1/8 PTFE bush, the washer was plain turning the bush was also but I had no PTFE but remembered ( i think Jim or JB's ) comment on plastic cutting boards which just happened to be made of a suitable material, machined nice too, mind you don't think SWMBO was too impressed. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 23:31:40 GMT
Pic194 Close up of bearing housing with spindle inserted and washer and bush ready for fitting. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2011 23:36:41 GMT
Pic195 The finished handbrake which I'm happy to report works perfectly... I'll leave the brakes for now as I have no 1/16 rubber sheet for the vacuum cylinders nor any 1 1/2 OD copper tube for the reservoir tank. So next job will be to finish the suspension which I suspect will involve just as much work as the brakes, but hey it's all good fun. More soon Pete PS: forgot to add the handle and spindle is cross drilled ready for a roller pin although for now it's held with a 1/16 rivet as I'll be taking it on and off a few times I'm sure. Also in this picture are the brass support plates ready for fixing later once I've built the water valves. Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 2, 2011 9:23:17 GMT
Very nice Pete, you have good eye for details and Patience to do the job. Keep up the great work .
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Post by Jim on Mar 9, 2011 16:22:29 GMT
That is simply mouth wateringly brilliant Pete. You are indeed a master craftsman.
Jim.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:11:47 GMT
Good day all First off, thanks to Shawki and Jim for your kind words of encouragement. Well I had planned on starting the suspension but on checking stock discovered I was low on some items. Not wanting to start without everything to hand I decided to tackle the sprung buffers for which I did have the necessary materials. Pic196 Here are the lumps of steel cut to 3" lengths ready for machining the buffer bases. Not sure what steel this is as it was an old 2' length of 1 3/4" that my son bought home for me from work but one thing is sure it's tough stuff.. Lol Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:15:28 GMT
Pic197 The basic shape having already been machined here I'm boring out to size for the buffer heads which will be the next items to be machined. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:19:20 GMT
Pic198 Once the basic turning/boring had been completed I turned up an alloy plug to fit so I could lap the bores to finish. I used some fine valve lapping paste for this job. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:23:27 GMT
Pic199 Next was to move the bases to the rotary table for machining the 4 No.44 holes ready for attaching to the buffer beam. A straight forward job but time consuming as I had to turn down a MT2 soft arbour first and then tap and drill to hold the job securely. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:31:14 GMT
Pic200 Whilst pondering a jig for holding the job to machine the flat flanges it dawned on me that all I needed to do was place two 8BA bolts in the No.44 holes for the face that I wanted to do and push these against the side face if the machine vice and then tighten up. Once the first flange had been done it was a simple task to clock the job 90 degrees, move one bolt to the next hole and retighten in the vice, remembering to fit a spacer for clearance. Doing it this way meant I could leave the mill fixed on one axis and thus machine equal amounts from each face without having to measure each one. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:32:17 GMT
Pic201 The completed bases Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:38:18 GMT
Pic202 On to the buffer heads themselves, these start with plain turning of the shaft and then a 10 degree angle for the back of the head, well Don calls in 10 I think I would call it 80 from the axis that it's cut from or is it 100?.. either way it's correct to drawing The base has been slipped on to check for sliding fit. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:47:15 GMT
Pic203 Here the face is being machined using the method that's been mentioned on this forum before( thanks to John(baggo) for pointing me in the right direction). I'm not sure if I like the finish as it's a pretty flat dish although the drawing also shows the dome as very small in depth. I can always exaggerate it later if I wish. I forgot to take a picture showing the shaft being bored out to accept the spring. Also this then had a hole drilled and tapped 4BA for the securing screw. Another part I forgot to picture is the socket that holds the spring in place, guess I was to busy for pictures.. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:48:49 GMT
Pic204 Picture showing how flat the dish looks Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2011 12:54:23 GMT
Pic205 Finished article. I have now received the materials needed to manufacture the springs so I'll get on with those although I may just get the guard irons out of the way first.. More soon Pete Attachments:
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