Building Don Young's Doncaster

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I decided to spend today tidying up the front area as it was looking a bit of a mess. So all of the temporary bolts, nuts etc that were holding various hinges/parts have been removed or filed flat and relevant holes filled. I also made the latches for the lower door and the Gusset counter flap which both work nicely. The upper door latch will have to wait until I can find some info on what it looks like.
The eagle eyed amongst you will notice that the lower door upper hinge bar has been shortened back to Don's original drawing( in the previous picture you can see where the extra piece had been added to match the various pictures I now have) as it may foul against the handbrake, I'll take another look at this later in the build.

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[Smifffy]

Inspirational stuff Pete, keep the pictures coming.

Smifffy

[Jim]

Smiffy's right it is inspirational work and the sort of thing that makes this site so good.

Jim

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Thanks for the words of encouragement guys, gives me the incentive to keep going..

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Continuing with the front detail here are the two locker doors ( part of Malcolm's kit) along with strips of brass with copper tube soldered to them ready to be cut up for making the hinges. One piece is the same thickness as the doors with the tube soldered along the top edge, the other one is thinner and the tube is laid along it's edge butting up against it. This will allow the doors to close flat against the locker panel, the doors have also had the chain holder drilled and then soldered on ready for the chain.

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Hinges now cut to size and being soldered on to the door, metal clip was used to both hold the hinge in the correct place and also act as a heat sink to stop the hinge falling apart

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Components nearly ready for attaching to the locker panel, need to drill the hinge where it's attached to the door for two rivets to be fixed as per prototype .Also need to attach the chain to stub and a 1/32 rivet to the other end ready to hold the door closed via the hasp and the hasp's need fabricating too. Tomorrow I'll get these done and then fixed to the model.

Pete

Edit: BTW I forgot to add that this picture was taken upside down by mistake, so if you look at it while standing on your head you'll be fine.....-)

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Doors, water gutters, hasp's with chain and pins fitted. Needs a good clean up before moving on

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Close up showing water gutter with rivets and chain with pin attached holding the door closed.

Pete

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Thanks Mike and yes I'm finding it very rewarding as I'm sure everyone here does when working on their own projects.

I've been continuing work on the tender body paying particular attention to the stiffeners that give internal support to the tender sides. I have deviated from Don's instructions as they seem to be just for show rather than prototypical. Don had instructed to add some 3/16x1/16 brass strip held on by 4 3/64 rivets between the brass right angle at coal chute height up to the top of the sides.
Thanks to Trevortinley's photo's of FS's tender that he kindly sent me I could see how it should be, I realise that this tender is a corridor version whereas I'm building a non corridor but I'm sure most parts will be the same. In the photos there is no sign of rivets so I'm assuming it's welded, it could also be flush riveted but either way the look would be the same.

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Close up showing some of the stiffeners soldered in place ready for cleaning

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All 12 stiffeners fixed and cleaned although the whole body will need a proper clean up before painting. Oh and although you cant see it here I repositioned the locker hasp's as the doors weren't hanging square which will not do... Lol

More soon, will probably do the front water vents next plus the lifting eyes.

Pete

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Just one pic for today, it's getting very cold in the workshop with all this white stuff around even with the heater at full power, or perhaps it's just me getting older and feeling the cold more... Lol

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This shows the water vent tubes that Don omitted from his drawings, the photo's that I have are a little unclear when trying to work out the correct shape, I hope I'm not to far away. These were constructed by first heating and bending to shape some brass bar, next was to find some brass tube that slid over this and cut some bands and end pieces to make them look like tubes. Finally the tubes were soldered in place, they are dummies thus taking away the possibility of coal getting into the water risking blocking the loco's two injectors, remembering as already stated that I have no hand pump...

Pete

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[Jim]

As always lovely work Pete. I must say I'd agree with you in having dummy water vent tubes for exactly the reasons you quote, keeping foreign objects out of the water is a problem enough without having bits of coal down the vents.
It reminds me of a traction engine rally I went too where a friend was talking to a rather attractive young mum and failed to see her darling 2 yo had quietly lifted the tender water filling cap and was pouring handfuls of sand in as she burbled away
Back on track, the photos are great and clearly show the incremental steps taken in assembling what will be a beautifully detailed miniature of the full sized loco.
Thanks Pete.

Jim

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Thanks Jim although to be fair Don did state that he had left the water tubes off because of this problem, and since up till a few weeks ago I didn't even know what an injector was I can hardly take any credit for it here, but hey I'm learning..

Pete

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Amazing Pete. I will pester you for this info for Tornado build, that's if I ever get this LNWR out of the workshop.

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Thanks Mark , any help I can give your very welcome too, although I'm not sure if Tornado has any of the water scoop gear fitted , I could be wrong though. I do however have that very good limited edition magazine that was published on the Tornado with many first rate photos which I think you'll find very helpful , they have helped me doing mine so far since the tenders are similar.

Pete

PS: please do show us the LNWR loco, would be nice see..

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Hi all

Today I tackled the tank lifting lugs , the next few pictures show how I chose to do them.

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I started with some 10mm square brass bar, first I machined it to a 'T' section. I then changed to a ball nose slot drill and partitioned the 'T' section to the correct lug size leaving enough material to allow for a parting cut later. The first picture shows this plus the lugs have been drilled and rounded off with a file.

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Here the lifting lugs have been divided with the front's having been angled as to drawing. Also the 2 right angled prices of brass have been formed ready to support the front lugs. All are about to be tinned ready for fixing

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The rears being soldered in place, they are held in position by a MDF template which is reversed for doing the opposite side. Oh and the MDF is the grade A fire proof variant ,I saved some scraps from the Wolfman movie where it was used for a 3rd scale model of Chatsworth house that had to be set alight many times without burning down, I also use it for my brazing area..

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Rear lugs fixed in place, sorry about the poor quality of the photo

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Front lifting lugs/brackets fixed in place.

More soon guys..

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