Building Don Young's Doncaster

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Hi Pete,

Yes I must get around to sorting some pics of the LNWR and posting them both here and on my facebook page. It's been a big pain of a job, so many error's with the drawings. recent one being that the smokebox is all fabricated, did this to the drawings, fitted temp to the boiler and put in the frames only to find its to low, the valve gear sliding links hit the bottom of the barrel without any cladding. Just one of the many problems with this build The Duchess was a dream to build compared to thie job. Anyway its been rectified now and I will try to get the pics posted asap.

Mark

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Wow, I think I'd be pretty disillusioned doing all that work only to find out the drawing was wrong Mark. Don's drawings seem pretty good with only a few small things so far, I do recall reading on a forum somewhere somebody having trouble with a wheel fouling against one of the tender chassis cross members. I've not had this so perhaps the drawing has been changed.

Well today I've been having a little fun in the workshop , it's been warmer too which helps.

Pic84

I decided to attach the tank filler neck with hex heads rather than sweating it on as Don suggests, gave
me chance to play with the rotary table, here the holes have been drilled. This is not necessarily prototypical as some pictures that I've seen have this ring whereas others do not. Well mine has and it's held in with bolts...

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Pic85

Holes transferred to tank top and tapped 8BA

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Pic86

Filler neck now bolted in place

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Pic87

I also fitted the handrails today, here we have the front

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Pic88

Rear handrails in place, BTW I bought the handrail stanchions from Maxitrack. Before doing so I contacted them for measurements as I recalled reading somewhere that their 5" scale stanchions were to big and to go with the smaller 3 1/2" as they were closer to scale. This information was correct and in fact the smaller scale matched Don's drawing perfectly, so I'm grateful to whoever put that info on the web.


Pete

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Hi Mike

It was a 1 3/4" dia length of brass, it's construction is covered earlier in this thread. If I'm lucky i may also have some wide enough for the lid, if so I'll probably do that next.

Cheers

Pete

Edit: The info is on page 4 Mike...:-)

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Errr, yes the vacuum was used or shall we say abused but dont tell SWMBO...

Pete

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Did a little research today regarding the tank filler lid, Don's drawing is different to the photos that I have which show a much smaller diameter lid than Don's. Also the drawings show a straight cut to separate the two parts of the lid whereas the photos show the lid itself having an angle to it. This makes sense as with a smaller diameter lid it would be impossible to open with vertical sides thus confirming that FS's current lid is indeed smaller. I also found a picture showing the older GN tender with the larger lid, so I'm guessing that it was changed on the later tenders, of course I could be wrong but certainly today the lid is of a different type.

Pic89

Brass billet turned down to size, faced, corners rounded and now being parted off

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Pic90

Lid was then reversed in jaws to machine the recess, to stop the lid getting marked I wrapped it in some brass shim to protect it. With the lid pushed flat against the jaws and held firming but not to tight this worked well.

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Pic91

It was then a simple task to Mark out and cut the lid using the bandsaw( it's blade was narrower than my slitting saw) I then set the sanding table at the correct angle and sanded the lid cover to give enough room to be able to open the lid.

That's all I had time for today, tomorrow hopefully I'll do the hinges and clasp.

Pete

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[Jim]

G'day Pete,

Like you I find having access to lots of photos of the prototype invaluable in cross checking drawings of parts. I suspect some designers sometimes simplify things for construction purposes and in the process create a 'knock on' effect that leads to problems later on.

Jim

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Hi Jim

Well to be fair to Don his drawings are very detailed and I'm sure they will be accurate. Don has stated that his drawings cover 3 different tenders, the earlier GN with top rails, the non corridor and with a few mods the corridor version. too. All have the same chassis so it's only body styles that are different. I'm guessing that he choose the earlier tank lid, perhaps because there was already a casting available( at least that's what he says in his write up). Personally I prefer the one on his drawing as it has more components (I love detail) and thus more interesting. But FS today doesn't have it so I've followed what she has now hoping that LNER used these when the streamlined tenders where introduced.

Fingers crossed..

Pete

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Now according to Don the lid was designed so that it couldn't open fully when forced up in an overfill situation while the scoop was in action. So I had to design my hinge to allow for this, the components are similar to the other hinges made so far although this time I silver soldered the parts together for extra strength.

Pic92

I haven't taken pictures for the general components as like I said they are the same as before, I have included this picture though as previously I had some thin wall tube of the correct size, this time I didn't..
So here we have some 1/8th brass bar being drilled to a depth of just over 20mm. Normal procedure used, centre drill followed with a 1.5mm drill bit, the drill was set in the chuck with 22mm protruding so it was a simple matter of stopping as the chuck got close to the work piece. Of course I had to do this twice for the parts needed. Parting was a simple matter of removing from the chuck, placing on the bench and rolling under a scalpel blade, hence why the hole was drilled longer than the 20mm needed.

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Pic93

This is the finished hinge , the part attached to the lid was placed so that the pin section was over hanging the edge. The part fixed to the smaller section that will later be brazed to the filler neck was set further in with only a small amount of the pin hanging over the edge. In doing this I can control how the lid will actually open and sit when closed.

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Pic93

The lid in it's fully open position, had to do a little filing to get the lid to operate correctly but otherwise I'm happy with it.
Next will be to fabricate the clasp and then attach to the filler neck, that can wait till tomorrow as the workshop is very cold today, or I'm getting older, perhaps both...


Pete

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Pic94

Today's job was to finish the hatch, here are the components ready for assembly. The coupling clasp is made from stainless steel with brass rings silver soldered to complete. The brass was first drilled as with the hinges and then brazed across the top of the U shaped stainless steel, this was then cut and filed to finish with a 12BA screw. Hinge part was as before and riveted to the hatch lid, the final part being the bracket that attaches to the filler neck

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Pic95

Finished hatch which works nicely, I'm assuming that the bracket works so as to stop the lid from flying open , if that is the case it's mission accomplished

Pete

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[Smifffy]

Superb workmanship Pete, do keep the pictures coming.

Smifffy

[Jim]

As Smiffy says, 'Superb workmanship, Pete' and I couldn't agree more and born out by the fact that it looks even better in close up, an acid test if ever there was one!

Jim