uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 24, 2020 15:42:54 GMT
You could do away with the pump and blow off valve. Enclose the tank and fit a Schrader valve, then use a bicycle pump (have to be a decent high pressure one) to pressurise before the run. You should be able to get enough air in to exhaust the oil supply, so easily enough for a day's use.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 24, 2020 15:31:43 GMT
If they're on show, then anything except normal hex heads will look odd. For strength and ease of use, Allen cap heads are hard to beat.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 24, 2020 12:15:38 GMT
What a blow if the only free compartment on the train was in the no smoking carriage. I suppose you can't even smoke now on the footplate.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 24, 2020 8:50:34 GMT
I have a Fiat 500. Nice little car but performance is a bit dull. It's never been fitted with a superheater turbocharger, and I've heard that they can really transform a car's behaviour.
I've also heard that a Porsche 944 turbo goes like stink - I had one of these (OK, not the turbo one). So do I fit a superheater turbocharger off one of those onto my Fiat?
Or, do I think more Smart car? I had one of these - sweet little engine, modest superheater turbocharger, doesn't go like stink, but very pleasant and well balanced.
I think I know which way I'm going, but other Fiat/Porsche/Smart car owners are, of course, free to choose which way they want to go.
Wilf
(Edit - first version had supposed Morris Minor instead of actual Fiat)
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 23, 2020 14:45:31 GMT
Definitely better afterwards.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 23, 2020 6:32:33 GMT
And - talking of wheels and nervousness. I did a chap's Stirling Single wheels for him at the Pumphouse. I'm sure his lathe was as big as a Myford - and he's a better engineer than I am. But he was happier to watch me do them.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 23, 2020 6:29:30 GMT
I get nervous, too. I've been putting off milling my axleboxes to size for over a year. The job is straightforward enough and, unlike a wheel casting, the material would be cheap to replace if I cocked it up. And yet somehow I would rather tread on hot coals than get stuck in. So I've been making other parts instead. I know shall overcome my reluctance in due course.
Wilf
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uuu
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Juliet
Apr 22, 2020 16:02:14 GMT
Post by uuu on Apr 22, 2020 16:02:14 GMT
Link goes to "This page isn't available" for me.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 22, 2020 12:39:05 GMT
I had a Midget. My first car - cost me £300. Engine out job to change the clutch, though. Happy days. Then someone hit it when it was parked.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 21, 2020 16:57:37 GMT
I find gunmetal the strangest material to machine. Half the time it seems to be rigid, and then behaves like putty. Sharp tools seem to help.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 21, 2020 16:48:23 GMT
Be gentle with me, I'm still just trying to find my way around model engineering.... today I made a firebox door for the William. It's on a plate as the boiler doesn't have any bosses on it so this back plate locates under the gauge glass stanchion and lower clack valves. Looks simple, but effective. Can I suggest a bar running vertically between the two straps, on the right, with the latch sandwiched between it and the door. So as you pull on the latch to open the door, the force is not all taken through the latch's pivot bolt? Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 21, 2020 6:36:22 GMT
The bar coupling also needs the pin secured in some way. It's not fun to watch a loco run free after the pin's jumped out.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 20, 2020 14:47:44 GMT
They're more relevant in piston-valve locos. A slide valve can lift if there's suction on the intake side, but a piston valve can't.
Having a flow of something when coasting will keep cylinder lubrication going.
I'm sure there are some other reasons. Jessie does not have one shown - so unless someone else can come up with something good, I'll probably do without (although I'm proposing a modest superheat rather than incandescent).
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 20, 2020 14:37:15 GMT
If they're going to overheat when coasting with the regulator closed, then they are also vulnerable when stationery, unless you've some cunning plan to pass something through them in the station.
So I wouldn't worry.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 20, 2020 14:27:34 GMT
Before jumping to blame your mill - have you checked the diameter of your wobbler tip? You seem to be a bit out in X and Y, so it would be a worthwhile first test.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 20, 2020 11:48:25 GMT
OK - I can answer that one. You set off, and the chain tightens. The middle link is propelled upwards. If the vehicles immediately come together again, the inertia of the upward moving middle link unhooks the chain.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Apr 20, 2020 9:00:37 GMT
Yes, carry on. If you want to ease yourself back in, and you're scared of the wheels, just choose some other part. Have you done the buffers or buffer stocks? Make a whistle. The brake standard (that holds up the operating handle).
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 20, 2020 6:34:03 GMT
Fit a little motor: When you've painted your loco you can spit-roast it in front of a fire to harden it.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 19, 2020 10:33:28 GMT
Jessie drawings have the word "slot" on the relevant dimension.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Apr 18, 2020 18:12:35 GMT
My little Villiers Century (click photo for video)...... Sweet! I love the kickstart. Wilf
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