millman
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Post by millman on Dec 3, 2023 11:51:01 GMT
Sorry for hijacking your post Chrisb but I am doing a very similar thing to a 30 year old Polly 2 loco, the boiler had to come out of the frames because the boiler inspectors insisted on seeing it in the flesh and the valve gear was rattling so time for a bit of TLC. I have stripped everything back to bare metal and have got some etch primer for all the brass bits, tender water tank, boiler cleading etc but I wonder if someone could advise as to the best way to proceed with the black steel frames and other steel and iron parts, I don’t want to put the frames in brick cleaner to remove the black scale due to the hornblocks being attached and the stuff seeping in to any gaps and causing problems later so should I use a red oxide primer or etch primer on the black mild steel, and what should I use as a base or primer on the cast iron and bright steel bits. Painting is a bit out of my comfort zone, I am far happier at the lathe making swarf.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 25, 2023 19:37:54 GMT
Well my vote would be for black, satin to match the satin green.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 16, 2023 15:24:17 GMT
I like the idea of white radiator paint, I suppose the commercial gauges are silk screen printed. Kozo Hiraoka’s book on building the Heisler contains details of how he made his own pressure gauge and also a dead weight tester to calibrate the gauge, I have made the dead weight tester and it works surprisingly well, I have not plucked up the courage to try the pressure gauge though.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 13, 2023 22:15:07 GMT
My experience is the same as Chris, doesn’t stay nice for long. Maybe worth giving a coat of matt varnish or lacquer if you want to preserve that finish. Try it on an inconspicuous piece first though.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 6, 2023 13:54:44 GMT
I agree with you Jim, Tufnol would run quietly against steel but you need the right grade and they should be cut out of sheet rather than bar, if made from bar the teeth have a habit of shearing off as I am sure you know.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 4, 2023 17:54:12 GMT
I think I would go for A or C. Brass should be OK but might be the most expensive.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 4, 2023 15:55:15 GMT
There should be a thread somewhere about uploading photos, as I understand it they have to be hosted by a third party.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 1, 2023 17:15:20 GMT
Welcome to the forum Pete, you can’t go far wrong with a Simplex, regarding drawings if you don’t ask you don’t get. Have you joined your local club, it may be worth joining the nearest one and letting them have a look at the boiler and it’s paperwork before you put it all back together if you intend running it in public.
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millman
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Post by millman on Nov 1, 2023 13:43:10 GMT
Totally agree with Steve, the hook needs to be more secure, mine clips on to a g clamp style of holder that fits around the RSJ. Wheelbarrow wheels are a good idea, if you want smaller wheels go to a caravan dealer and have a look at jockey wheels, they are available as solid or pump up versions.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 26, 2023 7:54:20 GMT
Carrying on from what Flyingfox says, if you look on Modelengineeringwebsite.com, sorry don’t know how to make working links, there is one of JGS Clarke’s locos featured, Gooch 4-4-0.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 25, 2023 12:19:14 GMT
Polly also offered a driving trolley in two lengths roughly 3 foot and 4 foot long, it could be used for raised or ground level track. A welded frame and raw material pack and drawing were offered while in JGS Clarke time but latterly only ready made versions were available.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 25, 2023 8:11:51 GMT
All looks correct to me, all the Pollys except Caroline and Suzanne have Stephensons valve gear. I have a feeling that there was a Prairie 2-6-2 with belpaire firebox and it was sold in two versions, with or without rivet detail. I have two Pollys, an un run Molly Ann, just finished and a very old Polly2 which I am just starting to strip down as it rattles like a bag of nails, I hope to have it all stripped and cleaned back to bare metal by mid November and then start rebuilding and painting over the winter. Were JGS Clarke and Andy Clarke related, father and son?
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 24, 2023 14:14:22 GMT
Thanks Malcolm, yes it was Lila, old age does funny things to your memory.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 24, 2023 7:44:52 GMT
Is this the one that was written up ln Engineering in Miniature many years ago, or am I getting confused with something else.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 23, 2023 14:36:31 GMT
Having exactly the same problem as Neale, Cloudflare message and permanently spinning wheel on an iPad.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 21, 2023 18:14:55 GMT
Do you have any drawings and any other parts for it, tender, boiler etc, it looks as though it is the Keith Wilson design, if it is it was written up in Model Engineer many years ago.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 20, 2023 17:54:45 GMT
I would willingly post feedback on the forum for Morton’s to see but I cannot get past the verifying your connection is secure page, I can only assume that my iPad is no longer supported on your new software, I am certainly not going to buy a new device just to participate in the forum so it looks like you have lost a member, and no forum, no magazine, I shall change from Model Engineer to Engineering in Miniature.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 20, 2023 10:03:45 GMT
No experience of the company’s products but seem to remember seeing their adverts in Model Engineer magazine throughout the eighties, I believe they also sold a few casting sets for stationary engines, I would imagine it was a one man business ran possibly from home.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 19, 2023 18:56:36 GMT
Looks like it’s working now but when I try to log in I get a “verifying the security of your device” page and I can get no further. Looks as though that’s the end of the ME forum for me.
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millman
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Post by millman on Oct 18, 2023 15:19:05 GMT
If they are stainless elements they usually go to the rear of the firebox.
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