|
Post by builder01 on Oct 30, 2019 13:39:32 GMT
Eightpot, thank you for describing what you have done. We'll need a report when after you steam it. I suspect it will be just fine.
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Oct 30, 2019 9:50:06 GMT
Thanks Norm, very interesting!
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Oct 30, 2019 0:14:17 GMT
How do you do this "treatment"? I think sodium silicate is also called water glass. Is the treatment done hot, or cold? Do you remove all fittings from the boiler? What exactly is the procedure? I have read of others using "water glass" with success and I am very curious about it. (My own self-built copper boiler passed it's first hydro-test two years ago as well as this year's annual test. So far so good!)
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Oct 29, 2019 0:49:41 GMT
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Oct 21, 2019 1:51:29 GMT
Thank you for the info! I am not familiar with your work. Without a caption, the photos do not mean anything to me. Thank you for placing them in context for me, and perhaps others. Those sure are beautiful locomotives! - David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Oct 20, 2019 13:13:08 GMT
Photo caption? Explanation?
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Aug 24, 2019 14:14:12 GMT
Sorry this information is a little bit late, as it seems like you already have your blast pipe and exhaust pipes finished. For the exhaust elbows, you do not need to be restricted to what you can fine at a hardware store. If you make them out of copper, it is quite easy to make them from straight copper tube, and form them into a wooden "wheel" to get the sweep, or, curve you need. Here's a photo of the exhaust pipes I made for my loco. These were formed from straight copper pipe and the entire assembly silver soldered together. DSCN0957 by Builder16, on Flickr Another copper pipe was silver soldered into the pipe that holds the two curved pipes together. This pipe was threaded, (very fine thread) to allow the blast nozzle to screw directly onto the end of the pipe. This makes removal and disassembly fairly easy. The blower ring is incorporated into the blast nozzle. The blower jets are installed at a slight angle so they converge at the bottom of the smokestack, not just pointing upward. I would not worry about debris blocking the jets, 100 psi steam seems to keep mine pretty clean! DSCN1045 - 4 Blast Nozzle & Jets by Builder16, on Flickr The position of the blower steam supply pipe was marked and installed after the blast nozzle was screwed onto the blast pipe. That way you can position it so it is not in the way of any of the other piping. DSCN1050 - reduced - 2 by Builder16, on Flickr Here's the finished piping inside the smoke box. DSCN1449 - 2 Smokebox Piping by Builder16, on Flickr It looks like the flues are blocked from being cleaned. There are 14 flues, 10 can be cleaned through the smoke box door, and the remaining 4 are cleaned through the fire box door. The gap around the steam pipe and the smoke box floor has been covered by a split ring not shown in the photo. I did get some help from Julian for setting a more correct distance for the blast nozzle to the choke. - Thank you again Julian! David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jul 25, 2019 10:12:47 GMT
Looks good so far!! Are the areas for the horn blocks already machined to size?
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jul 17, 2019 21:06:41 GMT
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jul 11, 2019 1:46:09 GMT
Nice!
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jun 20, 2019 1:02:00 GMT
Okay Pete,
As you have asked, I actually measured my oil pipes. They are about .093" on the outside, which is really more like 3/32" (not 1/16"). The inside is about .063", which is about 1/16". This gives a wall thickness of about .015". This pipe is probably a little larger on the outside than you were hoping. If you use smaller piping, just do the flow experiment and see what works best for you.
I have used this size for both my gravity feed and forced lubrication systems.
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jun 18, 2019 22:36:45 GMT
When checking to see what will work, what I did first, was to experiment to see of the oil I was going to use would actually "flow" down the pipe I was going to use. I made a small cup, connected to my pipe on one end, and filled it with oil. Before long, there was a puddle of oil at the other end and the cup was empty! If I put felt in the bottom of the cup, the pipe remained full of oil. Without the felt, it all eventually all ran out. You can do the same thing to witness the oil flow through the small holes in axle boxes.
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jun 18, 2019 22:30:58 GMT
I have felt in the bottom of the oil cups for my main axles. I fill the oil cups, the oil soaks through the felt in the bottom of the cup and into the pipe, and then from the other end of the pipe it drips into the top of the axle box. The oil holes on the axles boxes are very small. The oil gets through no problem. My loco is not a "scale" model and what I have done may not be appropriate for what you need. With the felt in the bottom of the cup, oil remains in the pipe and does not all run out. These photos are with the boiler off the frame. DSCN1810 by Builder16, on Flickr DSCN1808 by Builder16, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jun 18, 2019 21:02:11 GMT
1/16" copper pipe works fine for both pumped, and gravity drip. For the gravity type, if you place a piece of felt in the bottom of the oil cup, this keeps all of the oil from dripping out of the pipe. When the oil level reaches the top of the felt, it mostly stops dripping out from the other end of the pipe. Probably capillary action causes this, seems to work well for me.
As for the viscosity of the oil, the most heavy of oil can be pumped. For my gravity feeds, I use a pin/bearing/journal oil that is ISO 220.
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jun 10, 2019 2:14:42 GMT
That's quite the hand pump! Very nice.
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jun 6, 2019 16:21:46 GMT
Any photos of this Simplex? Sounds pretty neat! Would love to take a look!
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on Jun 6, 2019 10:13:03 GMT
I have both the axle pump and hand pump in my Super Simplex (Martin Evans). They both work fine and do exactly what they are supposed to do. I made the axle pump from a casting and the hand pump I machined from the solid. These are both good performers.
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on May 27, 2019 2:07:01 GMT
I have built my Super Simplex with 1-3/8" cylinders. It runs great and has plenty of power. The valve gear is built exactly as drawn. It works quite well forward and reverse.
The ash pan does not cover any of the fire, it is in fact below the fire.
David
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on May 27, 2019 1:44:27 GMT
|
|
|
Post by builder01 on May 25, 2019 1:23:05 GMT
Typically, return bends on superheaters are stainless tubes that are TIG welded. This is the only part of my boiler that I did not make myself, as I don't the equipment for this.
With the right type of flux, it is not hard to silver solder stainless to copper. I use high temp black flux. I don't know how well the return bend will hold up if silver soldered versus TIG.
David
|
|