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Post by joanlluch on Mar 20, 2015 22:56:55 GMT
Ok Steve, no problem. I keep interest in your build because I started mine by studying the Britannia plans.
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 20, 2015 22:59:50 GMT
Joan, please don't apologise. As I said in an earlier post, everyone has a contribution to make and your comments are often noteworthy, as are those from every other contributor. I won't always agree with your opinions but I respect your right to hold those opinions, regardlesss. Steve A very good reply. Have you considered joining the Diplomatic Corps? Don't forget, a diplomat is a good man sent abroad to lie for his country... |
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Post by joanlluch on Mar 20, 2015 23:01:00 GMT
John, seriously, stop it.
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Post by Jim on Mar 21, 2015 2:15:36 GMT
it is too late tonight for me to trawl through my papers and drawings but i have a feeling i may need to apologise to joan for he may have raised a valuable point, having just dug out my 5"g Bulleid pacific horn castings and had a good look. there may indeed be an error on the 5"g Brit drawings. Jim will no doubt confirm one way or another as will Geoff, and our brilliant 9F builders! it's not quite my area of interest im afraid. (anyone want 3 pairs of gunmetal hornblock castings for Ariel?) cheers, julian Hi Julian, Steve and Joan, I've just popped out and checked my faded Perrier drawings and Joan is correct there is a 1/16" reduction. The plans we are using are I suspect, a concession to modellers as the actual works drawings show a quite different and more complex welded design as seen here in John Johnson's photo coverage of the restoration of Oliver Cromwell. www.britanniabuilder.com/GCR0506/hornblocks.jpgThanks Joan for asking the question as I for one hadn't spotted the slope in the cutout though in my case I had to fabricate the horns as the castings were missing and so followed an easier path, mainly because I'm lazy.  Jim |
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Post by ejparrott on Mar 21, 2015 9:18:50 GMT
John, You really have a problem. Nobody else has a 'ignore' list. Just you. On the contrary.... |
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gwr7800
Part of the e-furniture
Member of Portsmouth mes
Posts: 388
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Post by gwr7800 on Mar 21, 2015 10:08:21 GMT
Joan, please don't apologise. As I said in an earlier post, everyone has a contribution to make and your comments are often noteworthy, as are those from every other contributor. I won't always agree with your opinions but I respect your right to hold those opinions, regardlesss. Steve A very good reply. Have you considered joining the Diplomatic Corps? Don't forget, a diplomat is a good man sent abroad to lie for his country... |
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gwr7800
Part of the e-furniture
Member of Portsmouth mes
Posts: 388
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Post by gwr7800 on Mar 21, 2015 10:10:58 GMT
Diplomats also stop WW3 starting! Bit like this forum sometimes! ( brother is a diplomat in NATO ) regards Chris
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Post by joanlluch on Mar 21, 2015 10:19:24 GMT
John, You really have a problem. Nobody else has a 'ignore' list. Just you. On the contrary.... Hi Ed, well maybe there is somebody else with his own 'ignore' list against someone else. Not you I think, as you do contribute with useful replies to questions posted in the forums. |
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 21, 2015 10:52:34 GMT
John, You really have a problem. Nobody else has a 'ignore' list. Just you. On the contrary.... Ed, I think your ellipsis missed the mark... John |
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Post by joanlluch on Mar 21, 2015 11:14:16 GMT
Ed, I think your ellipsis missed the mark... John Not quite John. Please be man enough and open me to send you a PM. I think you are dealing with this in a very wrong way. |
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gwr7800
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Post by gwr7800 on Mar 21, 2015 11:25:51 GMT
Dare I ask how the builds going?
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Post by springcrocus on Mar 21, 2015 12:05:15 GMT
Dare I ask how the builds going? I was going to post the next update tomorrow night but I think I will bring it forward and post later this evening.  I didn't want everybody getting bored and vanishing but maybe we need to concentrate on the task in hand. Thanks for your concern Steve |
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Post by springcrocus on Mar 21, 2015 18:32:08 GMT
The pump stretcher is just a bit of 10 swg mild steel plate and a couple of bits of 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/8" m.s angle. The plate was marked out in the normal way and all the holes drilled, the only awkward ones being the two 1" holes. The six pump mounting holes were done using the co-ordinates from the Zeus book. If you haven't got one, get one ASAP, a mine of information. I had a 1" blacksmiths drill on a 1/2" shank but didn't fancy drilling this size from scratch so I used a 24mm hole saw instead and used the 1" drill to open up to size. This was done on a bit of 12mm MDF and I did make sure that the plate and MDF were well clamped down on the table. I wasn't too worried about accuracy here since the top hole is just clearance for some pipework and the lower hole is for locating the pump body - I can machine the O/D of that to suit.  My steel angle had a bit of a ropey finish so I cleaned up one outer face on the belt linisher and marked out one of the rivet holes on that face, making sure that, once assembled, the angle would be about ten thou wider than the finished size. I also marked out, drilled and tapped the three frame mounting holes on the other face of the angle. After dropping a rivet into the one drilled hole and clamping similar to how I did the top stretcher, the other three rivet holes were spotted through and drilled with the rivet going in each time. After messing up some riveting once before by getting the holes slightly out of position and having to open them up I always follow this procedure of drill, rivet, drill, rivet etc  Once the whole caboodle was assembled, It was clamped to an angle plate and the outer edges were skimmed on the mill to clean the faces and end up with a snug fit between the frames. After reading the opinions of many of the contributors on the forum, I may leave the pump out altogether and rely on injectors and a hand pump. The pump stretcher can stay, though, as it helps to stiffen the frames. Thanks for looking in. Steve |
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Midland
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,875
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Post by Midland on Mar 21, 2015 19:06:24 GMT
Thanks for looking in. Steve I love your comment Thanks .. above. Rather than 'looking in' you are a veritable genius and I an starting to keep a notebook on how to do various things. Have you considered keeping your build diary in a form that you could publish for those in the future who will not have the skills, training or depth of knowledge that some of our members have today. I think this would be a huge asset to the young chap wanting to build a Brit 25 years hence. Just keep the bloody unnecesary comments out of it or insist that they are in a foreign language!!!! Cheers David PS I have just finished reading all of this thread and it convinces me that I will not write one when I get going on my little L & Y. I do not want to have the Spanish Inquisition down on me every minute. I can muck it up quite well by myself. As an alternative I might start a closed Facebook thing and ask you Steve and Julian, Ed , GG and the rest of you experts to be my friends and do the job there. All this bloody argueing and apologising is boring! Cheers D |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2015 19:35:07 GMT
Nice work Steve... looking forward to the next...
Pete
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Post by springcrocus on Mar 21, 2015 22:44:11 GMT
Thank you all, gentlemen, for taking the time to look in on my build diary, particularly to Pete (Greenglade) who has quietly followed along with "likes" and the occasional comment - thanks, fella, it's people like yourself who make it all worthwhile - and others who have encouraged continuation of the thread regardless of our small diversions, interesting as they are. David, look closer to home, my work is no better or different to one of your own colleagues but thank you for your kind words anyway.
In the interests of harmony, I would ask that we all consider the difficulties that arise when both cultural, as well as linguistic, barriers are crossed and that due regard is given to those who are unable to "read between the lines" in our everyday speech. The English language, for all its' simplistic grammer, carries a range of nuances that may be disadvantageous to non-native speakers. And if you ain't got a bl**dy clue what I'm talking about, give 'im some slack and lets all get on and enjoy our hobby.
Steve
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Post by ejparrott on Mar 22, 2015 9:30:24 GMT
Drilling holes of large diameter in thin plate is always difficult. Your use of a holesaw before the drill is a good idea. For holes up to about that size I have a step drill and a cone drill, between them they cut very good holes and in plate they are invaluable. If my step drill hasn't got the right size on it, the cone drill will take it up from the previous step. The only downside is that the hole is slightly tapered - the thickness of the material will determine how bad this is and whether drilling from both sides will be sufficient. Mounting the part on the faceplate and boring it in the lathe is another option, these days I just use the CNC mill to interpolate it, and if it should require to be round and a fit, finish with the boring head.
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Post by joanlluch on Mar 22, 2015 9:32:18 GMT
Hi Steve, thank you for your 'pacyfying' post. I just want to add something to it:
Writing in a non native language is a lot more limiting than 'reading' it. Monolingual natives tend to regard poor or unusual use of their language as a lack of general intelligence of the writer. Moreover, if the non native writer has a language level beyond the basics, mistaken 'reads between the lines' may occur where none is intended by the writer. The latter is very important because the non native writer may not be aware of the inappropriate use of a word or combination of them which may be out of place and result in misunderstandings or even offence without any intention. The subsequent evidence of it brings frustration to the non native writer because of such perceived lack or understanding.
Said that, your consideration about culture and language is totally true and I fully agree on that. Your post on this subject is also welcome.
Last by not least. As your posts move the thread forward, it becomes clearer that your build is in the top range ones among the ones shown in this forums. Midland's suggestion to keep this on a 'clean' build diary is also something I would like to see if you ever decide to do so.
Joan
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Post by springcrocus on Mar 22, 2015 17:00:33 GMT
The drawing shows the bogie stretcher as a casting with a couple of bits of angle riveted to the sides but the casting I got supplied with came as shown below. I started by fly-cutting the base to get it flat and then turned it over and skimmed what would be the top of the angles down to size. Then I clamped it to an angle plate and cleaned up the fore and aft faces. They don't do anything but it's handy to square these up to help subsequent operations. While the angle plate was set up, I also machined the outer faces which fit between the frames, remembering that these are wider than the original drawing size.  Time to sort out the mounting holes. These were marked out on the surface table using the height gauge and digital vernier and then clamped to another angle plate and the holes drilled.    They were tapped freehand as I usually do. Next, I held the stretcher in the vice and machined the inside faces, again just a clean-up, they don't do anything. I also cleaned up the face of the pivot pin boss, again size doesn't matter, just cleaned up for a nut and washer. Finally, I marked out the centre of the pivot pin hole and drilled and reamed it to size.  I will make the king pin a snug fit when the time comes. Thanks for looking in. Steve (couple of days break now). |
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Post by Jim on Mar 22, 2015 21:53:42 GMT
I'm looking in with envy Steve as I'm starting to see for the first time the castings I was missing and had to fabricate.
Jim.
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