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Post by delaplume on Mar 29, 2021 22:02:17 GMT
Slight problem has arisen--------When removing the pivot plate from the mainframes I found that the holding screws were loose......As you can see from the photo the water tank sits directly on top of them, but does not secure them ... thus they turn when trying the re-tighten the nuts..... Any ideas as to how to secure them before applying the nuts ?? PS}---- those pipes are the twin outlets from the double-acting hand pump..........Posh, eh ??
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Post by Roger on Mar 29, 2021 23:12:16 GMT
Hi Alan, How about using a drop of permanent Loctite onto them and letting it soak in. You can leave it overnight and then wipe off any excess. Enough might find its way in there to enable you to tighten the nuts.
If that doesn't work, you might be able to lock two additional thin nuts against each other onto the thread to hold it while you tighten the third nut underneath them.
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Post by keith1500 on Mar 29, 2021 23:14:12 GMT
Depends how small the screws are but...
How about using a Dremel with a thin slitting disc to cut a slot in the end of the screw. Then hold it with a small screw driver which tightening the nuts?
Or as Roger suggests to work some loctite into the thread, then nip up and leave to set.
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Post by delaplume on Mar 30, 2021 15:56:32 GMT
Hello all and thanks for the replies....... The Loctite suggestion got me thinking that a small dab of JB Weld should do the trick...( Being cheaper than Loctite )...It's a once-only operation and I don't anticipate removing the plate again in the future...
Alan
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Post by delaplume on Mar 31, 2021 19:45:46 GMT
To-day I made and then brazed the second steel block onto the pivot plate-------this was then prepped and a light skim taken off using the vert. miller to flatten and equalise both surfaces.... Here I'm showing - off my new insert parting tool........I've kept the HSS blade, just in case !! and here are 4 more bushes from the cored Phos.Bronze stick.......These are for the other bogie... next up will be the other, smaller Bronze bushes which will require use of the new knurling tool....More about that soon.. Alan
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Post by delaplume on Apr 1, 2021 20:52:32 GMT
To-day saw the pivot pin modified to include a large diameter flat washer....this is to add to the stability that the new outrigger blocks have given........ Some brazing and then hand file work in the 3-jaw was all it took........The existing thread will be replaced by a new stud.... Next was the second part of those Bronze bushes... For this I had ordered some 3/4 inch Phos.Bronze bar which naturally was a sloppy fit into the existing 3/4 inch hole in the axlebox.......(This is where those ball bearings had been fitted )......A good knurling, then parting off gave a bush blank just over length.......A session in the 3-jaw chuck saw one corner filed at an angle ( To give a lead when being pressed into the box )...and the other end centre-drilled to give a register for centering in the 4-jaw chuck later on....The prototype bush was then pressed in and the results checked.....
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Post by coniston on Apr 1, 2021 21:07:02 GMT
Innovative solutions there Alan, well done. Would a drop of loctite add some security as well as the press fit?
Chris D
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Post by delaplume on Apr 1, 2021 21:13:13 GMT
Innovative solutions there Alan, well done. Would a drop of loctite add some security as well as the press fit? Chris D Hi Chris......... I had considered that but if you look at the photo the bush goes in about 3/4 of the depth so there is quite a large surface area being compressed......Remember that our coupling rod bushes are only a press fit and they have a far more strenuous life than their counterparts in the axlebox......Yep, I'm happy that all's well..
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Post by delaplume on Apr 2, 2021 20:45:23 GMT
Here's the results of this mornings efforts........ 7 bushes ready for pressing-in then machining...
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Post by delaplume on Apr 3, 2021 20:59:59 GMT
It's Saturday morning and we manage to finish off the faces of the remaining three boxes and then press the smaller, knurled bushes in..... Next I set up the 4-jaw chuck, then mount and centre the first box for drilling and reaming to 14mm.......and that's when the gremlins realised they'd missed April 1st so made a late appearance........ ie}--- I went to get the reamer only to find NO 14mm Hand Reamer in stock !!...Ooo-errr Missus !! Tracy Tools have now received my order but that won't be actioned until next Monday at the earliest and probably won't get here until next Wed or Thurs if I'm lucky.......Tomorrow is Easter Sunday and I'm having afternoon Dinner at Joyce's SO, first thing Monday it's back to that Class 45 work and we get the body off and check-out the motors, wiring etc... Apart from me, why can't things just be nice and simple ??
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Post by Roger on Apr 4, 2021 16:43:40 GMT
Hi Alan, I like the cunning way you're clocking those up. My clock will get into a tiny centre, but that's one to remember.
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Post by delaplume on Apr 5, 2021 10:36:17 GMT
Hi Alan, I like the cunning way you're clocking those up. My clock will get into a tiny centre, but that's one to remember. Thanks Roger......Initially I set it up by Mk.1 Eyeball and then use this method for the last 15 thou or so ( 1/64" )......any more than that and the "Floating" centre will start to move away from the tailstock.. The Verdict is particularly adaptable as it has a couple of firm joints and the pear-shaped pointer can be "Clicked" into 3 or 4 pre-set positions...
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Post by simplyloco on Apr 5, 2021 10:53:57 GMT
Hi Alan, I like the cunning way you're clocking those up. My clock will get into a tiny centre, but that's one to remember. Thanks Roger......Initially I set it up by Mk.1 Eyeball and then use this method for the last 15 thou or so ( 1/64" )......any more than that and the "Floating" centre will start to move away from the tailstock.. The Verdict is particularly adaptable as it has a couple of firm joints and the pear-shaped pointer can be "Clicked" into 3 or 4 pre-set positions... I have a Verdict indicator. The pear shaped piece eliminates 'Cosine Error' as it goes up on down- "Not a lot of people know that..."
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Post by delaplume on Apr 5, 2021 12:04:00 GMT
Thanks Roger......Initially I set it up by Mk.1 Eyeball and then use this method for the last 15 thou or so ( 1/64" )......any more than that and the "Floating" centre will start to move away from the tailstock.. The Verdict is particularly adaptable as it has a couple of firm joints and the pear-shaped pointer can be "Clicked" into 3 or 4 pre-set positions... I have a Verdict indicator. The pear shaped piece eliminates 'Cosine Error' as it goes up on down- "Not a lot of people know that..." :D Correct !!...... maintains as near a tangential contact as possible for greater reading accuracy......... I also have a plunger type Mitutoyo with a 3 inch dial but that was used mainly at B'north Workshops when self-employed... Just a quick point about full-size axleboxes....the whitemetalled crown occupies less than 180 degrees of arc when looked at side-on........this is to prevent the lower part of the "Arch" as it were from pinching on the axle....... Unlike the smaller model engineer gauges these boxes don't have an accurate hole all the way around --- why would they ??---- so the crown is machined in a vertical miller or borer and the resultant round profile checked against a pre-sized gauge..Thus the axle journal would have to be re-machined first, the new diameter recorded, and the pre-sized gauge machined to match... then used for checking when finishing the crown final size... A loco like the Ex-LMR No.100 Gordon has a total of 22 boxes in all}---de-metalling, plus re-metalling, plus....re-machining equals one BIG contract job and sorry to disappoint you but I shied away from that one !!.........
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Post by delaplume on Apr 12, 2021 11:03:38 GMT
At last a bit of that Engineering rarity called "time" became available recently........ The 14mm hand reamer arrived in good order from RDG tools so I put it to good use and here we see the prototype box now with a nice reamed hole and a 0.002" running clearance on the axle......Some EP 90 oil gives a nice, smooth run whereas steam oil is fine when warm but oh-so-sticky when cold...Only 7 more to do then !! Over the years I've tried all sorts of oils but this seems the best in general...( I have a job lot in stock anyway for the Royal Enfield 500 Bullet )...
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Post by delaplume on Apr 16, 2021 1:36:42 GMT
--------- and here are the other 3 now finished....With that earlier,first one I'd used a 13mm drill before floating the hand reamer through..Alas this was a tad too small for comfort...Yes, I did get it done but there was a bit more that 0.015" for the reamer to remove !!......As a consequence of this I ordered a 13.5 mm drill from RDG and that arrived yesterday.........Much betterjob now altogether..
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Post by delaplume on Apr 16, 2021 12:41:41 GMT
PS}--- I've recently managed to de-cypher my digital camera's instruction book into plain English and re-set the size of image captured ( I'm even starting to talk like one !!! )....It seems to have worked judging by the size now showing on here and recent posts elsewhere.....
Oh how I miss that dear old Kodak Brownie 127.....in Monochrome ( Damm !!.... I meant Black and White )..
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Post by delaplume on Apr 17, 2021 1:10:31 GMT
A bit more progress with the first test assembly of the modified axleboxes and the modified beams----------note also the new, extra long springs that now give a decent pre-load to take the weight of the body before any movement takes place....
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Post by delaplume on Apr 18, 2021 20:22:27 GMT
and a tad more progress.... Here I'm tinning both the Steel and the Brass components before clamping and sweating them together.....
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Post by delaplume on Apr 18, 2021 20:24:21 GMT
next was to profile the 4 ends to aid sliding........... Finally another test assembly }--- this time the sliders are greased and the centre assembly is some 0.030 inch clear......This will allow me to adjust the amount of "nip" by using a nyloc nut and large washer on the centre pivot bolt underneath...
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