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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Nov 17, 2010 8:35:03 GMT
Very interesting and well done Pete .
Its great to see other people's progress , thanks for sharing .
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 9:19:23 GMT
Thanks to everyone for the words of encouragement , just turned on the heating in the workshop so while it warms up a little I'll post some more pictures. Pic11 So far the chassis had been temporary held together with mostly oversize head bolts and screws. I used these as during this time the chassis was dismantled many times thus marking the heads,it has now reached the stage where I could use scale sized heads for which I used loctite to secure. In this picture the chassis is held square on the mill bed while I changed the bolts. I was very happy that the chassis remained true with no rock. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 9:32:27 GMT
Pic12 Now that I was happy with the chassis it was time to loctite the wheels to axles. Here I have set up the axle between centres and used the toolpost to check alignment. These wheels have two small holes that Don says were there to stop the wheels ringing, for building the model they where perfect for holding the wheel onto the faceplate( alas I have no picture of that stage). I wasn't sure if these where supposed to be inline across the axles or not but decided to do so anyway, hence why there is studding being used to help align them. I was amazed at how quick the loctite set, lucky for me it didn't catch me out...  Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 9:38:31 GMT
Pic13 The chassis now has the outriggers brazed up and attached with 1/16th rivets and the 1/4x1/4x1/16 brass angle has been riveted too. I have also sprayed the chassis for which I used Upol acid 8 etch primer. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 9:43:25 GMT
Pic14 Chassis so far, in the background you can see the wheels with axle boxes fitted awaiting refitting to the chassis. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 9:45:43 GMT
Pic15 A picture of Tornado's tender chassis at a similar stage which I have used for reference Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 9:51:28 GMT
Pic16 Spring plates, naturally there are 8 of these, 4 intermediates with allowances for axle movement and the lead and trailing plates which are the same size. I gang machined these in batches of 4, here the intermediates are having their slots machined. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 9:56:32 GMT
Pic17 The plates have rings brazed to then for the spring buckle to sit into, I decided an easy way to ensure the rings went on centrally and a way of holding said ring while being brazed was to drill holes in the plate for temporary holding the rings in place using bolts. Here 4 of the plates are being drilled for this. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 9:58:37 GMT
Pic18 Plates and rings ready for brazing, the rings where a simple turning exercise. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 10:00:59 GMT
Pic19 8mm bolts used to hold parts together for brazing remembering to rub soap over the threads first... Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 10:02:34 GMT
Pic20 Finished spring plate in place Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 10:14:41 GMT
Pic21 Starting to look the part, next I decided to go upstairs and start the body for no other reason than I needed some more materials first and the fact that I had decided to purchase the laser kit from Malcolm at Model Laser Engineers which had just arrived.. I have read how some look down on using laser cut parts, I fail to see why, there is nothing complicated about cutting sheet material to size but it certainly is very time consuming and although I wouldn't consider myself over the hill yet I also have to accept the fact that I'm no spring chicken either and i do wish to both finish this loco and hopefully get some use out of it too. Later I'll post pictures for body construction, for now I'll give you guys a break.... Pete Attachments:
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Post by drumkilbo on Nov 17, 2010 10:58:21 GMT
Don't be away too long....you've got me hooked!
I agree about the laser cut parts as I got a tender tank kit from Malcolm a year ago which saved me a lot of noisy hacksawing of brass.
Ian
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 15:59:26 GMT
Ok taking a break from the workshop so have time to upload some more of the build. BTW today I've been building the wooden platform that sits on front of the soleplate, hopefully in a few days time this thread will have caught up with where I am currently on the build. Pic22 Ok so last post I mentioned the laser kit by model laser engineer , I started with the belly tank, this picture is nothing special but I included it as part of the process. I had to machine a small amount off the top edge to gain clearance between the bottom of the soleplate and the intermediate stays. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 16:04:40 GMT
Pic23 I have no rollers so had to use some steel bar to shape the tank, some panel beating hammers helped with this Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 16:07:21 GMT
Pic24 After the parts had been brazed together the tank was secured to the mill and the sides were machined down to match ends Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 16:09:31 GMT
Pic25 The finished belly tank checked for top edge being flat ready for brazing to the soleplate Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 16:13:02 GMT
Pic26 Belly tank held in place ready for brazing to soleplate Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 16:20:06 GMT
Pic27 With the tank brazed to the soleplate it was time to construct the wheel splashers. The kit has parts that basically make up into rectangular boxes, I didn't like those as they are not correct so made up my own, yes I know once built you'll never see them but I felt happier doing them as they should be. Here you can see the components shaped ready for brazing. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2010 16:23:40 GMT
Pic28 Simple jig to hold the parts for brazing, the sides will be cut to shape after. Before that each arch will be turned upside down and filled with water to check for leaks which is very easy to do while sides are still rectangular and level. Attachments:
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