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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 9:26:16 GMT
Pic47 And now fixed in place, just to clarify the part that needed modifying is the bottom left hand curve when looking from this angle, I had to bring the curve up about 6mm IIRC, like I said no big deal Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 9:39:32 GMT
Pic48 Here is something that I later changed, I had planned to have the water filler top plate removable as can been seen by the temporary hex head bolts put in place( these would have been changed to counter sunk later once I had some). Of course once I had rolled the sides I could see a panel this size would never be able to slide out, I originally planned to have this removable in case it needed a hand pump later. It has now been brazed into place taking Don at his word when he says to quote: a hand pump on a loco this size is undignified and with two injectors fitted if they both pack up then maybe so should the builder? Who am I to argue I know little of these things but I do wonder just how you get water in the boiler to start with, perhaps someone can explain the workings of this just for my peace of mind...  Pete Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 9:42:32 GMT
Ok later I'll tackle the water filler tube and rolling the sides, now back down the workshop for more fun... Pete |
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Post by baggo on Nov 18, 2010 9:52:02 GMT
An easy way to fill the boiler on a tender loco is to use a 12volt pump, such as a windscreen washer motor. Put a fitting on the end of the pipe from the pump that will connect to the handpump connection on the loco. Just drop the pump in a bucket of water and switch on. It would take ages to fill a 5" gauge boiler using a tender handpump.
Personally, I would not even consider not fitting a hand pump to a loco. Even the best injectors will let you down at some point and with no pump, you're in the proverbial!
John
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 9:58:27 GMT
Thanks John that makes sense, yes the reason I had planned to make the top removable was my head saying better safe than sorry, well to late now ,guess I'll just have to service the injectors very often... Again live and learn... |
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Post by drumkilbo on Nov 18, 2010 11:37:44 GMT
Couldn't you just make a portion of the top removable?
Ian
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 12:03:26 GMT
I could, or should I say could have Ian if I had done so before fixing the deck on. I don't fancy taking it off now or trying to cut nice neat lines along it while fixed to the rest of the body. I'm not worried about it though after many years working in effects I know that nothing is impossible to make work. I can think of a number if ways to get water into the boiler prompto in an emergency and at a lot faster rate than a hand pump, I'll work on that later, where there's a will there's a way as the saying goes... Pete |
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Post by rodwilson on Nov 18, 2010 16:40:47 GMT
So I'm not the only one! Going off topic when I installed my milling machine about two years ago only three of the holding down bolts would screw into the cabinet below. The fourth was left loose in the hole. A few days latter I removed the bolt and ran a tap through the cabinet hole from inside. that bolt has never been seen since.......  |
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Post by mutley on Nov 18, 2010 17:05:30 GMT
Umm, you might find your boiler inspector is not happy about the lack of a hand pump. There was talk about the regs requiring another method besides injectors. If your low on water, and no steam with a big fire you could be in trouble.
Andy
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 17:44:15 GMT
Hi Rob Err missing bolts??? I'm confused my mill has all of it's bolts, hey I just went and checked in case one had got itself lost.... Perhaps your talking about something else??? I agree with you Andy as I said common sense was telling me there should be some method to get water in if needed in the unlikely event of both injectors failing. As already stated I'm new to this and so have put my trust in Don who from what I've read was a very well respected designer and engineer. I accept that this design is nearly 30 years old and perhaps safety rules have moved on although I don't recall anything stating you must have a hand pump, I stand to be corrected if I'm wrong. But hey no problem if it has to have one, I'll work around it but thanks for bringing it to my attention guys, that's one of the good things about forums like these, others with more experience can hopefully direct new people like me along the correct path. Pete |
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Post by silverfox on Nov 18, 2010 17:58:49 GMT
Peter, In real time how long has all this taken? From your posts it seems that you that you build the part, take the pic, upload the post and are back in 10 minutes with the next bit!!
Ron (the other one)
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 18:09:38 GMT
Hahaha... I wish...
Hi Ron
No this has been going on for a while, this thread is basically slowly catching up to where I am today. I bought the drawings some 12 years ago, fast forward a good 10 years and I made a start on the tender chassis then there was a big gap( work forever getting in the way), but I guess where this thread starts was about two months ago . Currently I have a break between contracts so have a little time to get more done. So to sum up this thread has been covering the last two months plus the rest that I have completed but not yet put here, should be up to date over the next few days.
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 21:33:20 GMT
Ok tonights uploads, will soon be up to date guys..) Don suggests fabricating the water filler tube using copper tube, I had none of the correct size, I did however have some brass billet, a bit wasteful perhaps but at least I could get on. Pic49 First I faced off and turned to size. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 21:35:01 GMT
Pic50 Machined a step ( to locate in tank opening) and centre drilled Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 21:39:06 GMT
Pic51 Bored out, this was undersized as i wanted a step for easy locating and since the filler hole was the same size as the hole in the tank top I had to machine the bottom of the tube smaller. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 21:42:27 GMT
Pic52 Job parted , reversed in jaws so the top can be machined, this was done to about 3/4 depth remembering to leave enough material for the step Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 21:46:52 GMT
Pic52 Next was the bottom ring, first cut roughly to size, fixed in 3 jaw with packing, centre drilled and then bored out to fit filler tube. Yes I could have used the faceplate or 4 jaw but my rough shape was fairly accurate and the Warco chuck has nice grooves that held the job securely. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 21:48:29 GMT
Pic54 Ring was then brazed to the tube Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 21:50:41 GMT
Pic56 With the ring brazed securely the tube was reversed in the 3 jaw again and the outside radius was machined Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 21:57:24 GMT
Pic57 Tube tested for fit, I still have to drill the ring before fitting it and build the filler lid. That brings me to a question for you guys, Don states that Reeves do a casting suitable for this tender but it's not listed by Reeves. Does anyone know which other loco in their range may have this casting? Well think I must have bored you enough for one day, tomorrow I'll describe the fun I had forming the rolled tops and front for the tender side panels. Attachments:
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