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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2010 17:29:23 GMT
Thanks guys, I wouldn't look to close Jim, it's not perfect but nothing that won't be covered by paint I hope. I do admire those engineers who have everything perfect in nice polished brass, although to be fair I'd probably do things slightly different if I wasn't going to paint it. Well today we have the lamp irons... Pic96 First I cut some suitable brass to length and then bent it 90' followed by a lot of filing to shape, this gave me the bottom part of the lamp iron. Next I silver soldered a suitable piece of brass as the picture shows. With these pieces joined I could them finish filing to match the photos that Trevor kindly supplied me. Oh yes and my fingers are now very sore... Lol Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2010 17:35:50 GMT
Pic97 Here are the finished lamp irons, five of one type for the rear and two of another for the front. Don said to fix these with 3/64 rivets, the photos show that they are welded in place. I chose to follow Chris Vines advice from his great book " How (not) to paint a locomotive" where he suggests to have these items detachable to aid in the painting process later. I therefore drilled to accept 8BA hex head bolts. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2010 17:37:05 GMT
Pic98 Front lamp irons now fixed in place. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2010 17:43:52 GMT
Pic99 Rear lamp irons also fixed in place, currently these are held by steel hex head bolts, since these go through to the water tank I shall change these for stainless at a later date along with any others that do the same. That's all for today guys, I got a stinking cold so not up to speed last few days, next job will be the rear steps which will also be detachable. Pete Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2010 18:38:06 GMT
Good day gents After a couple of days off dying with man flu( so my wife says) today I got on with the steps to be fitted to the rear of the tender. Pic100 Here is the former for the step plate made from an Oak off cut, held in the vice squarely trapping the step material to the front jaw, it was a simple job of using a dolly one side at a time to beat to shape. With the basic shape formed this step was then silver soldered to a rectangular piece of brass for the support bracket. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2010 18:42:25 GMT
Pic101 Once cooled the steps were then filed to shape as shown here, this took a good few hours, I'll probably do a little more to finish when I go over everything before painting. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2010 18:46:31 GMT
Pic102 Steps fitted with 8BA hex heads like the lamp irons, I'm not sure whether to keep the hex heads when I later change to stainless of perhaps use socket counter sunk as they are less obvious, what do you guys think? Pete Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2010 19:57:30 GMT
Pic102 Steps fitted with 8BA hex heads like the lamp irons, I'm not sure whether to keep the hex heads when I later change to stainless of perhaps use socket counter sunk as they are less obvious, what do you guys think? Pete Pete, I can't see your hex heads to make any comment. Perhaps it's too neat already! JB |
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Post by Jim on Dec 13, 2010 20:15:31 GMT
Hi Pete,
Why are you swapping to stainless 8BA hex heads for the lamp irons? I'd be inclined to leave as is as you have obviously done a very fine job and they are never going to come off again.
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2010 20:52:22 GMT
Hmm, sorry guys maybe I should have taken the photo from a better angle, you can see the hex heads in earlier pics of the lamp irons though which are the same. Jim I will need to take the steps and lamp irons off in the future for painting and since I'll be testing the tank for leaks before this I best change to stainless or I may struggle to remove them once the threads rust up on the inside.
Regards
Pete
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isc
Statesman
Posts: 708
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Post by isc on Dec 14, 2010 11:21:42 GMT
If the tank is brass, maybe brass bolts would be the way to go, assuming that the other end of the boltwill be in the water space, I don't build locomotives, but I try to keep like metals if they are going to be wet. Stainless bolts, stainless tank. isc
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2010 14:06:19 GMT
I understand your reasoning Isc and it does make sense. However I would prefer stainless for it's toughness as well as it's ressistance against rusting. Whichever product I use to seal the tank I will still have to remove the bolts after it sets and stainless ones give me more confidence in achieving this. But yes if it was just a case of bolts in water they would be good.
Thanks for the input, much appreciated
Pete
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Post by noggin on Dec 14, 2010 17:35:10 GMT
Nice work mate, youve got a lot done, with that man flu, think im comming down with it, ;D
Noggin
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Steamgramps
Active Member
Wanted 5" Gauge Wagon drawings LNER 6 plank open fitted wooden frames
Posts: 28
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Post by Steamgramps on Dec 26, 2010 23:29:56 GMT
I Have a centre cylinder casting for Doncaster on ebay if you are interested? 2 days left
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2010 12:40:21 GMT
Hi Gramps
Thanks for thinking if me, I had already been told about the casting and have looked at it. I'm a long way from cylinders and still undecided as to which castings to use, Don's or Michael Breeze's which are so much cheaper or perhaps do my own patterns. A fellow member on this forum is sending me a copy of Michael's cylinder drawings to help me decide. I was tempted and if the two other castings for the covers had been included then perhaps more so. As I've said before I'm new to this with little experience and trying to avoid taking on unknowns because if there was something wrong I wouldn't necessary notice until it was to late.
Cheers
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2010 23:32:40 GMT
Well I finally got some time in the workshop today along with my two youngest boys, so while they built their tanks and cars I got on with FS. Pic103 Today I started on the 3/16th beading that covers most of the edges around the tender and for help with this I referred to Jack's (jbodenmann) thread on another forum to guide me. The piece in the picture is the beading for the front panel having been annealed prior to bending. Here you see it in a jig taken from Jack's thread. I used a scrap piece if alloy, another turned piece to the correct diameter , drilled for clearance to accept a 2BA bolt , the plate having already been drilled and tapped for it. A paper template was taken from the tender rear panel (same as front but easier to draw around) and the pattern was drawn on the alloy plate for both left and right hand sides. The beading was then bent to shape and held by a clamp with a positioning mark lined up with the turned collar for the next tighter curve. The beading was then gently tapped using a hammer and piece of wood until it matched the drawn profile. Wow that was a mouthful.. lol Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2010 23:37:36 GMT
Pic104 The beading having been shaped for the left hand side and held in place via clamps, Jack drills holes into the beading which he taps and holds with small screws, unfortunately I didn't have any small enough so resorted to the clamps. I won't be able to do this for the sides so will need to find some suitable screws somewhere. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2010 23:40:33 GMT
Pic105 Having done the left hand side I marked the right while the beading was held in place and then put the beading back into the jig but this time using the right hand profile Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2010 23:45:53 GMT
Pic106 The beading now shaped and soldered to the front panel, hopefully tomorrow I'll do the rear coal wall panel and also the rear panel itself which are more or less the same shape as the front. Hope you all had a great Xmas guys, back soon Pete Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2010 19:20:27 GMT
Pic107 Just one picture for today, the rear coal bunker panel and rear panel itself now have the beading soldered in place. Next to do is the side pieces which will take a little longer as they are more involved. Besides the two external pieces of beading I also have the internal pieces to do at the front of the tender. After that the whole thing needs a good soak in some pickle before applying some primer and filling any small blemishes. Wish me luck Pete Attachments:
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