Building Don Young's Doncaster

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Dec 28, 2010 19:23:51 GMT @mavermick said:

and it looks as though you've been allowed inside with it too!

Yes Mike, well it is Xmas , I can't spend all my time down the workshop, plus I like to be comfortable when filing, sanding and doing a general clean up that requires few tools.

Pete

[Shawki Shlemon]

There is always more than one way to do any job , I have done a few tenders in my hobby time and have fitted halve round beading of 1/8" & 5/32" dia and have never screwed them in place . I anneal where the bends to be , shape using any suitable method I think of at the time then clamp it in position progressively using 6 1/8" SS split pins as clamps , soft solder never stick to them if one is using baker fluid , see my tender on MY CURRENT PROJECT thread , these 6 split pins have been used for the last 25 years and earned their keep . Also the clamping is not tight and solder runs even under the split pins . I have mentioned this before , it is easy and fast .

[Deleted]

Yes Shawki there are many ways to do a job and each person should use which ever way works best for them.

Today I tackled the beading down the right hand side, I had hoped to get both sides done but it took all day just for one... lol


Pic108


I first formed the two internal strips, here we see the left hand side which I'll have to finish tomorrow. It's not fitted yet just resting in place.

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Pic109

Next was the outside piece, here the first two bends have been done using a alloy collar turned to the correct radius.

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Pic110

The collar was then switched to the larger size to form the final curve with the remaining length left oversize. BTW I only annealed the section to be curved.

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Pic111

With the outside piece shaped it was first clamped at the front edge, having already been drilled to accept 14BA brass screws. While held the first three holes were drilled so the front edge could be held tightly so I could perform the final bend around the front curve( the length of this piece was calculated before hand)it was then a simple task to drill the remaining holes around the other curves and down the side. This piece was then removed and the internal piece was held in place via clamps so that the holes could be drilled , once this was done both pieces were positioned and held tight via the 14BA bolts which now go through both the tender side and the two pieces beading. It was then a simply task of sweating in place.

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Pic112

The completed right hand side, only problem now is I have to do it all again tomorrow... lol

Cya then guys..

Pete

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Thanks Mike....

My wife's convinced I live there already, mind you she may be right the amount of time I spend in it, hey I even have free view Sat TV...

[Smifffy]

Ahh, time in the workshop is a tough one. I have a little girl and both her and my wife are very understanding, and don't complain about me spending lots of time in there. Of course, they may be glad that I'm in there" :-)

You're making great progress Pete, keep it up.

Cheers

Smifffy

[Laurie_B]

Excellent work Greenglade!And keep the photos coming too!

[Deleted]

It's great to see the beading work in progress with pics and your explanations. Thanks to your and Jack's (jbodenmann) example and advice, I now feel suitably encouraged to have a go at the half beading on the tender for my Allchin traction engine - never done it before but now I know how it should be done - even if mine fails to look anything like it...... ;D

Please keep pictures coming

Regards, A

[welshy]

Lovely work Greenglade, it is the first time I have commented on your work but I have read and looked at all your posts with great interest. The tender looks a lovely job it will look a treat behind the loco.
Mike

[Deleted]

Thanks guys..

Smifffy i'm sure my wife also smiles to herself when i disappear down the workshop

Thanks Laurie_b , I'll try too.

alasdairm I'm more or less following Jacks advice on how to do the beading, i have to say though it's relatively easy to do but very time consuming

Thanks welshy, I have to say I'm looking forward to starting the loco, I have the frames ( laser cut) and a few castings for the chassis, I also have Malcolm,s ( model laser engineering) kit for the Cab plus a few other small bits. Plus my wife ordered me the bogie wheel castings and vacuum cylinder castings oh and all the material needed to finish the tender for xmas, So i suspect I'll start the loco in the not to distant future.

thanks for the kind words guys..

Pete

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Pic113

Well according to the drawings that's it for the body, I have a few more bits I want to do though , the upper door clasp which I think I now know how that goes. I'm also thinking about adding the two doors that help close the gap between loco and tender, of course I'll have to do the same to the loco if
I do.oh and I need to add the bracket that holds the water level gauge in place ( which is on the drawing). So hopefully in the next few days I'll dip the tender into a tank of pickle and leave it there for a while. Once it's primed I'll fill any small gaps, oh and I need to seal it with that petseal stuff.

Happy New Year guys....:-)

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[Shawki Shlemon]

Pete , she looks great and good encouragement for 2011 .All the best .

[drjohn]

Pete,

You're inspiring me to attempt getting on with my tender for Don Young's Black 5 - Many thanks for your very useful pics.

DJ

[Deleted]

Thanks for the kind words Shawki and DJ.

Please do start a build thread for your black 5 DJ, I'm very impressed by his knowledge and talent for the Doncaster, his attention to detail is second to none and it would be great to see another of his designs on this forum.

Pete

[Deleted]

Ok I decided to go ahead and do the doors for the tender, well anyone who knows me would have know that from the beginning, if it's on the prototype then it has to be on the model, probably why I have so many unfinished models... lol
As I said there is no info on Don's drawings for these so I used some pictures and scaled from those.

Pic114

I first cut a piece of 12" wide copper to the correct door height, marked out the reinforcing strips, tinned that area and then sweated on suitable pieces of brass strip.
This gives me a piece big enough for the tender doors and also the loco doors at a later date. Picture was taken after a quick clean with a sanding sponge.

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Pic115

Before cutting the doors to size I soldered on the hinges, I cheated a little here as in my old model boats box I had some brass rudder hinges from a ship of the line model.
These happened to be the correct width with small holes just like the prototype. I put a suitable piece of brass rod to represent the pin( that will be fixed to the tender side) and squeezed the hinge together. This was then clamped to the door and sweated on. The pic shows one hinge in place and another just to show what it is. Once in place the two brass rods will be removed.

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Pic116

The two completed doors, showing both inside and outside views

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