5 inch gauge Doncaster by Don Young.

[tim]

Dec 28, 2015 18:28:27 GMT @greenglade said:

That's a lovely piece of machining Tim...far better than the casting...keep it up mate..oh and Happy Xmas...

Pete

Thanks Pete, machining from solid has had it's drawbacks though, like tool radii where there would be sharper corners but none of it will be seen so I should get away with it. Merry xmas to you too.

[tim]

Not really an update as such, but I just thought I'd share one of the things I got for Christmas this year which was the driving and coupled wheels,(I already had the bogie and trailing ones,) These will doubtless sit for some time now, but still, in my mind I can see them on a rolling chassis.

Regards Tim.

[stan]

Hi Tim
They look good castings who made them
Stan

[tim]

Dec 30, 2015 22:14:22 GMT stan said:

Hi Tim
They look good castings who made them
Stan

Hi Stan they are from Reeves.
Tim.

[stan]

Hi Tim
They are a lot better castings than the ones I bought from Norman Spink for my 9F, May I take this opportunity to wish you a Happy New Year
Stan

[tim]

Dec 31, 2015 22:09:01 GMT stan said:

Hi Tim
They are a lot better castings than the ones I bought from Norman Spink for my 9F, May I take this opportunity to wish you a Happy New Year
Stan

And a happy new year to you too, and indeed everyone on here.Best wishes to all.
Tim.

[runner42]

Hi Tim,

a fine looking set of castings. I hope the machinability is matched to their good looks, mine looked good also but contained hard spots on the rims.

Brian

[tim]

Dec 31, 2015 23:32:33 GMT runner42 said:

Hi Tim,

a fine looking set of castings. I hope the machinability is matched to their good looks, mine looked good also but contained hard spots on the rims.

Brian

Well fingers crossed I have no problems, I plan to make a start on the bogie wheels shortly so I'll soon find out.
Tim.

[tim]

Evening all, rather a large update tonight since I finally have something to show for the past couple of months!
So after many hours of work on the bogie centre I finally have it finished now. I think I underestimated the amount of time this one would take!


Also I`ve made the yokes for both bogie types.
First up the swing link. And the first call I`ve had, to do some silver soldering, thankfully for me though it was quite straight forward.
First picture shows the casting and the 2 brass plates which needed to be soldered together.

And after a good fettling and soldered together.

A tricky one to hold while machining but this was the first operation, sandwiched between 4 x 12mm square blocks.

Then bolted onto a mandrel on the lathe for the back face to bored out,

Then just the side holes to pivot on the swing links to complete.

Next was the much simpler sprung controlled yoke. This started life as a 2"dia phozy bronze billet.

First job to square it up prior to machining,

And then finish milled.

One final picture for now just to show a comparison of both frames so far...

Regards Tim.

[Deleted]

lovely work Tim...that sprung bogie yoke is brilliant...I can't even see any machining marks.....you must have some top machinery for doing this......great work sir...

Pete

[tim]

Feb 27, 2016 21:36:29 GMT @greenglade said:

lovely work Tim...that sprung bogie yoke is brilliant...I can't even see any machining marks.....you must have some top machinery for doing this......great work sir...

Pete

Thanks Pete yes the machinery is great it's nice to be able to use them. The bogie centre has been shot blasted and had the mating faces dressed with wet and dry hence no Machining marks.
Tim

[tim]

Hi all, so after some time I now have all the parts required for the spring gear in the bogie centre.

And after some fiddly assembly here it is all in place.

Can`t believe how much work is involved here since this is by no means finished! But I can say that the bogie is one of the things I`d been wanting to make for a long time, so onwards and upwards.
Hopefully more soon.
Tim.

[tim]

Good evening all,Has it really been 5 years! Wow how time flies,
I originally only decided to take a couple of months break, but a lot of forces were at work and kept me from making any progress.
Since the last post featured work on the bogie, I have decided to take a step back and revisit the tender.
The steps have been on my mind for a long time now and so I decided to start there.
I managed to have some time at work so sourced some brass and made a start. 

To begin i machined the step profile all the way down and drilled the holes to suit the ones in the frame.

Both top and bottom step shared the same process, so I'll dispense with additional details, afterwards all that was left to do was to skim the backs off.

And finally here they are fitted to the tender frames.

Hopefully... NO definitely more soon.

[JonL]

Those look excellent.

[tim]

Hi all, rather a large update this weekend!
I'd thought I'd make a start on the vacuum cylinders after receiving the castings from reeves a little while ago.
After reading dons notes, I proceeded as follows.

First I gave them a quick sandblast


They where then held by their periphery's and the spigot was turned and trued up above finished size



Off to the mill now where I machined some jaws to hold them by their spigots


Next a minimum skim was taken


The OD was then machined to 1 5/8 diameter


The chamber was then cleaned out using a ball nose cutter.


The difference between the two half's starts now, the top half just has a 1/8 by 1/4 hole to allow clearance for a 5ba nut.


Onto the bottom half now, again the spigots are finished to 3/8 diameter but left taller this time.


The bottom half's where then drilled and tapped


And finally here they are only needing a drilled hole to accept a copper tube


There are still a few more parts to make for these, so plenty to be getting on with.
More soon, Tim.

[tim]

Hi all, only a small update today
Decided to make the vacuum reservoir this weekend
This is my second component that required soldering together on this model
The reservoir body started life as a 1 1/2 inch 16 swg copper tube.
This was ended up to length on the lathe


Next I turned up a pair of brass caps tor the ends, one has a tapped hole in.


These were then soldered into place. The caps where left oversize so they could be turned to the diameter of the tube.


I then put a hole in the tube to suit the drain plug
Next the drain plug was turned up and positioned and aligned into place using the the tapped hole on the mill.
And then finally solders into place


Here it is after a quick clean up.


Lots more soon, Tim

[tim]

Good evening guys,
Continuing on with the vacuum reservoir, I made a start on the reservoir bands to attach it to the drag box.
Now I know these could be bent and formed with brass strip, and I did buy a sheet of 1.2mm brass for this job.
However, after thinking about hacksawing a 5 inch length 1/4" wide and getting it straight and then forming it, I decided to tackle this the best way I know how and took the job into work this morning.

These where made from 1/2 thick brass


The profile was machined as efficiently as possible to minimise waste, since the shocking cost of brass currently!!!


I next used a 1mm slitting tool to part them off.


And here they are all finished and deburred, they still need their holes for 8BA bolts putting in to bolt to the drag box, so I will do that later.


Since I was at work I also had time to make the reservoir protector
This was machined in the same fashion as the steps I did a few weeks ago. 


Then the back was taken off


And here it is


I have made up some dummy pieces of wood to test fit the assembly and all seems ok. 


Thanks for al the likes guys, more soon
Tim.

[stevep]

Tim,

You have put a drain plug in the reservoir, but I found it most useful to have a spring-loaded valve that you can press easily to destroy the vacuum.

I fitted vacuum brakes to my Stanier, and when I disconnected the train pipe from the driving trolley, the brakes on the engine immediately slammed on. Having an easily operated valve enabled me to then move the engine.

[tim]

Feb 22, 2021 9:34:23 GMT stevep said:

Tim,

You have put a drain plug in the reservoir, but I found it most useful to have a spring-loaded valve that you can press easily to destroy the vacuum.

I fitted vacuum brakes to my Stanier, and when I disconnected the train pipe from the driving trolley, the brakes on the engine immediately slammed on. Having an easily operated valve enabled me to then move the engine.

Thanks for the tip Steve, I will keep that in mind. Hopefully I will be nearing the point soon where I can put the vacuum system to the test, so will look at doing what you suggest. Tim.

[coniston]

Could you just use a knurled head screw plug in the existing hole with a couple of grooves milled or filed down the length of the threads and a rubber/neoprene seal washer under the head? A bit like the drain valve found on most DIY compressor reservoir tanks? A full turn would admit air into the system to break the vacuum and you can always remove it completely to drain any condensate. Just a thought.

Chris D