weary
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Post by weary on Jul 6, 2023 19:12:48 GMT
20 TPI = 1.27mm thread pitch. Are you sure that your lathe won't cut 1.25mm thread pitch which may-well be 'close-enough' with a bit of easing/aggression ? ? ? After-all the thread pitch is only going to be 0.4mm 'out' over 20mm Maybe only thread half or a third of the depth and open rest to clearance may suit? Depends of course on your usage and requirements.
(Yea, yea; I know that I'm an 'animal' with no finesse - no microns ever at risk with my 'engineering'!)
Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on Jun 27, 2023 15:19:01 GMT
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Post by weary on Jun 27, 2023 7:11:08 GMT
Hi steamtrainfiend,
Click on the blue username and you can see when that individual was last logged-in on-line here, together with any other information that they may have made available.
Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on Jun 27, 2023 7:07:46 GMT
Hi steamtrainfiend,
Peter Hale has not been logged-in on-line here for five years since Mar 15, 2018. Of course he may have been here subsequently without logging in, but .......
Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on May 24, 2023 8:18:29 GMT
Tom,
Nope. Your regulator is not 'junk', and in principle, as Brian (runner 42) wrote, should work provided the outlet holes in the vertical stand are adequately covered when the regulator is closed. (I have a suspicion that in the past some leakage past these regulators was considered 'acceptable'!) You may get the thing to seal a little better if you relieve the rotating disc center a little. Btu you must be beware of reducing the 'coverage' significantly whilst retaining enough surface to seal adequately.
If you wanted to convert/experiment with PTFE seals, then given your design, you would probably find it easiest to cover the vertical port face with a slice of PTFE pierced with two holes in line with the two outlet holes & held in place 'somehow'. Maybe a 'U' shaped piece of PTFE secured/clipped in at the sides may work. Please note that I have never worked with PTFE so do not know the niceties of shaping and cutting this material. I know that sharp new tooling is required but that is the limit of my knowledge on the subject.
Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on May 18, 2023 18:40:46 GMT
Hello Tom, If not already browsed then a look back through this thread should give you a good guide as to what is required to covert to a (perhaps modified) gas-valve and additionally includes some suppliers' details. But you might like to especially study Adam Cro's posting, approximately one third of the way down Page 2 of this thread on Apr 26, 2023 at 10:56am, further expanded in a follow-up posting Apr 26, 2023 at 9:33pm where he has a very interesting (well, to me anyway) alternative involving using ptfe inserts in the existing regulator. Additionally it might help you to know that user name rrmrd (aka Malcolm) has a build thread about his Don Young Hunslet. (Thread title = Hunslet 5 inch gauge build if link doesn't work.) There may be something of interest to you there, but if you skip to page 13 of that thread you will see that sadly Malcolm also had trouble with his (Stroudley type) regulator. Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on May 17, 2023 18:12:17 GMT
Hello Tom. Yes, pressurising the boiler as you propose will test the regulator shut-off for leaks.
Regards, Phil
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Post by weary on May 8, 2023 19:30:33 GMT
Yep, possible:
Anneal tube Hammer in 'swaging tool' to required depth. Depending on depth of widening and wall-thickness of tube it can be a slow job as you only want to use 'sufficient' force. Here is pic of a (hammer) swaging tool to give you an idea of how to make one if you do not wish to purchase. Lead-in is bore of existing tube, wider diameter is bore of widened pipe, machine gentle-ish transition between the two.
If you prefer to purchase tool then searching +++ copper pipe expanding tool +++ or +++ copper pipe swaging tool +++ will turn up results. Tools of varying degrees of sophistication available as they are commonly used in plumbing and air connections.
Regards, Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on Apr 22, 2023 18:24:13 GMT
I have a 7 1/4" gauge steam locomotive with 3mm thick (double) frames. It is not an articulated locomotive and the (double) frames are all-but 1m long x 30mm high braced by two 1/2" thick horizontal frame stretchers each 100mm long, one slightly ahead of amidships & the other at the rear (drag 'plate') as well as the usual buffer-beams. My frames flex! By that I mean that they can be flexed by (strong!) hand pressure and flex in motion. So ..... : as regards your "long narrow frames supporting the boiler" (i.e. the frames linking the two power bogies) I would suggest that plain 3mm thick steel plate would not be adequately rigid. I presume that the “ platform” of 2mm sheet fixed at right angles to the boiler frame" are the running-plates & whilst they would add rigidity in the horizontal plane if firmly fixed I personally would not like to use them in that way. I would suggest using the thickest plate that you can for these (vertical) frames; this could be milled to scale thickness along visible edges leaving the bulk as thick as possible. Provided you use hot rolled steel there should be no significant distortion issues with this approach. I appreciate that the firebox outer very visibly runs extremely close to the inside of the frames ( illustrative pic here) so you may be limited as to what can be done in this area & may require some compromises here -> for example, your model live-steam boiler firebox could be narrower to fit inside the 'thick' frames with the cladding above the running-plates dropping into the milled recess so maintaining the 'thin frames' illusion, and a dummy firebox and if necessary a dummy grate outer below the side-frames similarly positioned. Alternatively, or even in addition to the above, you could perhaps add a hidden (i.e. not visible from normal viewing angles) horizontal reinforcing rib welded inside and to the vertical frames where possible. Thus your frames would look like a 'T' on its' side, with the leg of the 'T' inside. Obviously, the thicker and 'wider' this reinforcing rib = the more rigid the whole assembly will be. As regards your power-bogie frames; These sound so well braced from your description that I suspect 3mm thick plate will do the job. However once again I would suggest a similar approach to the longer 'boiler supporting' frames using thickest material possible etc. Rigidity will make life so much easier in the long-term! Note that Ken Swan used 3/16" (4.75mm) thick plate for 'Bridget' frames & I think that you will find that this thickness of plate is commonly used in 7 1/4" frames. Turning to your frame-stretchers I have had a number of similar stretchers (like an elongated 'H' or 'adjoined L's when seen in plan) to make for my loco. I made them from three pieces silver-soldered together. I would not try to 'bend' stretchers to make the ends, even with heat; fabrication would be my preference as it is neater and more accurate. I prefer silver-soldering to welding for this approach as these 'small' (in my case) stretchers were visible under normal viewing and I wanted them to look neat. Fix parts together with small sacrificial screws to make soldering/welding easier. Make the ends (i.e. bolting faces to vertical frame members) over-thick (and even over-sized in all dimensions) and mill to final dimension(s) to ensure accuracy of final width (etc.). I also made a large 'U' shaped stretcher (analogous to your 'box-stretcher') by a similar silver-soldering method. To avoid milling-dramas in this last case I made all the parts accurately (erring toward overlength perhaps) and screwed it together with small sacrificial screws before silver-soldering - it was as 'close as dammit' when soldered-up and simply required rubbing of the ends on abrasive paper laid on a flat surface to bring to exact size (or as close as I could manage to measure with my equipment). An alternative to my 'accurate component measurement & assembly' method would be to make the 'box-stretchers' over-length with over-thick ends and mill the ends flat & to length by mounting on the lathe cross-slide & using the lathe as a horizontal mill (à la LBSC method before mills were common in home-workshops). You could of course weld rather than silver-solder if that is your preference. Just a few ideas 'off the top' for you (and others?!) to 'mull-over'. Regards & ..... ......Best of luck! Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on Apr 9, 2023 11:25:10 GMT
Halford's vehicle paints are acrylic based. Scroll down here on on a random example to see the description. I can assure you that the apparently hardened Halfords vehicle paints soften with direct petrol application. This is exactly why they also sell the Petrol Resistant Lacquer. I would guess that spillage around petrol-fillers onto external paintwork is relatively rare and most amateur touch-up is not in this area so most users do not notice! Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on Apr 8, 2023 20:24:52 GMT
Model Engineer Magazine April 20 1939, Vol. 80, issue 1980, pages 455 -> 458 inc. has an article 'Further Notes on the Model "Aveling" Type Road Roller" by E T Westbury.
Pages 456/7 refer specifically to the carburettor. In summary the suction carburettor as designed can be variable in operation; suggestions include fitting a float feed fed from a header tank under the awning or a small diaphragm pump or even a plunger pump driven from one of the valve cams or an eccentric between contact breaker and timing-gear housing. Westbury is not keen on the float-feed solution & recommends running a small-bore pipe from the silencer to the top of the fuel tank to pressurise the feed and states that he is 'currently' trying out this system.
The coil was specifically designed for this engine (?)
Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on Apr 8, 2023 11:26:06 GMT
Hello,
I found that Halford's spray paints are quite rapidly softened by petrol, (i.e. 'petrol-pump' petrol; I have not tried it with some of the exotic fuels used in small i.c. engines). This softening was solved by a top-coat of 'Petrol Resistant Lacquer' also from the Halford's range which gives a gloss finish and 'cured' the issue. I guess that the Petrol Resistant Lacquer will work with all acrylics and that there will certainly be similar products from other sources.
I cannot comment on how Railway enamels stand-up to petrol.
Regards, Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on Mar 26, 2023 15:02:23 GMT
I have found your website difficult to navigate (& to understand). Where are the prices please?
Regards, Phil
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Post by weary on Mar 22, 2023 21:03:49 GMT
Hello Alain,
Exceptionally fine work in such a small scale - very impressive!
And your photo-link worked too.
Regards,
Phil
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Post by weary on Mar 19, 2023 12:39:12 GMT
Salut Begineur, Vous pouvez dire aux gars ce que vous avez fait récemment plutôt que simplement aujourd'hui. Mais ils préféreront un texte en anglais ! Beaucoup de gens ont des difficultés à publier des photos ici - jetez un coup d'œil au fil de discussion " Posting photos" ou demandez de l'aide en anglais. Je ne comprends pas la référence à la bouteille de HP sause dans l'entrée ci-dessus par 'Boadicea'. Nous aimerions tous voir et lire ce que vous faites. Phil.
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Post by weary on Feb 28, 2023 16:24:39 GMT
Jon, Apologies if you know this already ...... but here goes ....... Bernard Lundberg wrote a number if articles for Model Engineer magazine (ME) covering modifications to this model. His objective was to make the whole model more accurate to prototype. Amongst the articles he covered valve-gear. He designed and built his own in the image of the original vehicles albeit with some variation. I don't know how detailed or useful the articles may be. If you put Lundberg as a search term into this index you should find the relevant ME issues. Jasonb of this parish may be able to give you some links to relevant postings on other fora. Regards, Phil
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Post by weary on Feb 12, 2023 20:48:29 GMT
Dave Smith, aka 'kipford' of this parish, has had some fine 3d printed brass, bronze, and steel items printed by Shapeways (in the Netherlands?). See reference here, tho' a search on this forum for 'Shapeways' will turn up other references. If he does not spot this thread it may be worth you contacting him for opinions/advice? Regards, Phil
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weary
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Post by weary on Jan 23, 2023 15:11:33 GMT
In addition to Jasonb's comments:
Suggest that under your proposed heading 'BUILD BLOGS' ->>
Change first proposed heading 'Locomotive Building' to 'Railway Models' or similar to cover rolling-stock, driving trailers, etc. This could also encompass 'Gauge 1' which would then not need its' own later separate heading & conform with other titles like 'Road Models' etc.
Under 'GENERAL' heading eliminate 'Images' heading. It seems perverse to have such a heading when many find it tricky to post pics on this site! BUT.... curiously there are many very interesting 'build' threads under this heading so they should be moved to any appropriate new 'build threads', or the whole 'Images' thread could be moved to the new 'Locomotive Building' where it would gradually sort itself out?
Under 'GENERAL' eliminate 'Model Engineer'. This heading has no real current purpose having been superseded long-ago in its' original concept. Any Model Engineer magazine matters are covered by 'General Chat'?
Regards, Phil
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Post by weary on Jan 16, 2023 11:58:58 GMT
The following excerpts from the introductory article which largely focuses on the prototype in Engineering in Miniature magazine, February 2023, page 17, may give an indication of the scope of the build series.
Background:
Nick Feast has bought a part-built 'Roedean', Schools Class loco, to LBSC's design.
"The LBSC drawings for an authentic piston-valve version and the detailed building notes were included in the sale, along with a set of drawings for the slide-valve version, originally sold by Clarkson's of York dating from around 1935.
"The LBSC series was published in English Mechanics [magazine] in 1949/50 and was reprinted without updating in Model Engineer [magazine] in 2011/12. having built a few locomotives I combined what I thought were the best elements of each design and added a few of my own, which I will describe in detail in the next articles"
"Next Month [March]: Nick starts his project by analysing what he has bought and what he needs ....."
Phil.
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weary
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Post by weary on Jan 16, 2023 8:46:22 GMT
Glue the handrail knob securing pads to the cladding this avoiding heat & (repair) repaint??
Phil
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